Source for Delta Unisaw Switch
#11
I was a member on this forum several years back which led me to the purchase of a Delta Unisaw and various other woodworking tools.  Following a recent cross state move the switch on my Unisaw stopped working.  I have done a little digging online and it appears as if the replacement switch is not available as an OEM part any longer.  I've read that Grizzley sells a suitable replacement but my e-mail to them with the specifics on my saw was replied to with a standard "we can't be responsible and will not suggest a part for a product we don't sell".

So, I'm hoping someone here might have a source to cross reference to a suitable replacement switch for my saw.

The badge on my saw has the following:

CAT. NO. 36-953
Volts 230
Amps 12.4
PH 1
Hz 60
Serial No. 04A***45
Type 2

So can anyone help me source a new switch?  I'm anxious to get this saw back up and running as I will be building a new house soon and plan on building a lot of my own new furniture and some cabinetry.

Thanks!
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#12
(05-07-2020, 03:09 PM)SpotNStalk Wrote: I was a member on this forum several years back which led me to the purchase of a Delta Unisaw and various other woodworking tools.  Following a recent cross state move the switch on my Unisaw stopped working.  I have done a little digging online and it appears as if the replacement switch is not available as an OEM part any longer.  I've read that Grizzley sells a suitable replacement but my e-mail to them with the specifics on my saw was replied to with a standard "we can't be responsible and will not suggest a part for a product we don't sell".

So, I'm hoping someone here might have a source to cross reference to a suitable replacement switch for my saw.

The badge on my saw has the following:

CAT. NO. 36-953
Volts 230
Amps 12.4
PH 1
Hz 60
Serial No. 04A***45
Type 2

So can anyone help me source a new switch?  I'm anxious to get this saw back up and running as I will be building a new house soon and plan on building a lot of my own new furniture and some cabinetry.

Thanks!
This will probably work Mag switch at amazon  though you dont specify how you know its the switch that is bad.  Do you have a meter you can check voltages at?  Are you comfortable working on electrical issues?
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#13
(05-07-2020, 04:48 PM)EvilTwin Wrote: This will probably work Mag switch at amazon  though you dont specify how you know its the switch that is bad.  Do you have a meter you can check voltages at?  Are you comfortable working on electrical issues?

Good questions.  The switch appears to have taken a blow during travel.  We have power going into the switch but the switch itself does not seem to be engaging.  My brothers are more comfortable working with electrical issues than I am and they have both looked at it and agree it appears to be the switch.
Thanks for your reply!
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#14
(05-07-2020, 06:04 PM)SpotNStalk Wrote: Good questions.  The switch appears to have taken a blow during travel.  We have power going into the switch but the switch itself does not seem to be engaging.  My brothers are more comfortable working with electrical issues than I am and they have both looked at it and agree it appears to be the switch.
Thanks for your reply!

That particular motor control is engaged when the Start button is pushed, which in turn mechanically pushes the contactor closed.  Once closed, an auxiliary contact set, which closes with the main contacts, establishes the circuit that energizes the coil which holds it all closed.  Pushing the Stop button breaks that coil circuit, releasing the main contactor.

So you can test it by removing the cover, plugging it in, and using a wooden stick to push the contactor closed.  If it starts and stays running, it's the Start button.  Which actually happens some times.

Grizzly used to have a close-enough replacement, but they don't seem to offer a single-phase unit in the 12-18A range any more.

They do offer a three-phase control with the right range, but I don't know if the overload block will function correctly when just L1 and L3 are used.  I suspect it will, though, as the single-phase controls appear to use the same block, and these little controls aren't sophisticated enough to do things like open on loss of phase or phase unbalance and such.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly...3-HP/G4673
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#15
I have this switch.  It is rated for 20 amps and 120 or 240 volt.  It has worked well since I got it in 2014.  I bought it from Amazon, but they don't carry it anymore.  MLCS carries it (and at a lower price).

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite.../9072.html

[Image: 9072-safety-motor-power-switch.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#16
-This is a 3 HP table saw.  Do not go with a standard switch.  You really need to stay with a magnetic starter for safety.  
-You need to see what is wrong with the current switch before exploring options.  Honestly, if your vehicle broke down during the cross country move, would you just look for a new vehicle or would you determine what is wrong?
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#17
(05-08-2020, 06:11 AM)TDKPE Wrote: That particular motor control is engaged when the Start button is pushed, which in turn mechanically pushes the contactor closed.  Once closed, an auxiliary contact set, which closes with the main contacts, establishes the circuit that energizes the coil which holds it all closed.  Pushing the Stop button breaks that coil circuit, releasing the main contactor.

So you can test it by removing the cover, plugging it in, and using a wooden stick to push the contactor closed.  If it starts and stays running, it's the Start button.  Which actually happens some times.

Grizzly used to have a close-enough replacement, but they don't seem to offer a single-phase unit in the 12-18A range any more.

They do offer a three-phase control with the right range, but I don't know if the overload block will function correctly when just L1 and L3 are used.  I suspect it will, though, as the single-phase controls appear to use the same block, and these little controls aren't sophisticated enough to do things like open on loss of phase or phase unbalance and such.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly...3-HP/G4673

That's curious. Grizzly's 1023RL 3 h.p. table saws are 15 amp saws. I wonder what starter they use?
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1023rl_m.pdf
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#18
(05-09-2020, 05:50 AM)kurt18947 Wrote: That's curious. Grizzly's 1023RL 3 h.p. table saws are 15 amp saws. I wonder what starter they use?
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1023rl_m.pdf

Yeah, that’s pretty suspicious.  I’d bet this 3 hp control has a typo in the description.  21-25A for 3 hp, single-phase, 220V - that’s up in 5 hp country.  Those Chinese motors tend to run at the high end for current, but that’s even beyond the NEC value for 3 hp, which is very conservative (for a reason). I believe that value is only 17A.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly...25A/T24101
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#19
(05-09-2020, 06:31 AM)TDKPE Wrote: Yeah, that’s pretty suspicious.  I’d bet this 3 hp control has a typo in the description.  21-25A for 3 hp, single-phase, 220V - that’s up in 5 hp country.  Those Chinese motors tend to run at the high end for current, but that’s even beyond the NEC value for 3 hp, which is very conservative (for a reason).  I believe that value is only 17A.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly...25A/T24101

That starter will not give any protection to the motor as the overloads cannot be set low enough.   I have a older 1023  3hp with a fulload of 18 amps at 220 per name plate, the starter is adjustable from 15-22 amps.    I noticed some newer saws have a separate push buttons from the contactor.   I wonder if they are listed under a different description.   I f your motor list a full load current of 12.4 a  it may be a 2 hp.  Roly
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#20
(05-09-2020, 09:08 AM)Roly Wrote: That starter will not give any protection to the motor as the overloads cannot be set low enough.   I have a older 1023  3hp with a fulload of 18 amps at 220 per name plate, the starter is adjustable from 15-22 amps.    I noticed some newer saws have a separate push buttons from the contactor.   I wonder if they are listed under a different description.   I f your motor list a full load current of 12.4 a  it may be a 2 hp.  Roly

Yeah, older Griz motors especially, and Chinese motors in general, tend to have high current ratings.  My Unisaw, which has the same Marathon 3 hp motor as the OP, is cap-start, cap-run, and shows 12.4 FLA on the nameplate.  It draws about 4A with no load, or maybe a little less.  The run cap increases full load efficiency (0.80), but mainly it improves power factor to 0.98 (I have the manufacturer’s data sheet, which I got through back channels).  So the 12.4A is real (230V rated).

Baldor makes a few TEFC’s at 3600 with 12.4A to 15+A, too.  

But that control has such a high range, starting waaay above even the worst 3 hp, that I suspect the listing is wrong.  

I still think there is a chance the OP can fix his, but without pics it’s kind of hard to tell.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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