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5 or so years ago I bought a PM50 jointer with solid carbide knives.
It had a sign on it saying, wood and plastics only.
Think it might have come from a Disney shop. Had M Mouse logo on it, and picked up near Disney.
So, has anyone jointed plastic?
Sounds scary to me.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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Yes. Plastic for table saw fences, zero inserts, etc.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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I've done HDPE. No big deal except shavings stick to everything.
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(06-27-2020, 07:23 PM)Sullivan Wrote: I've done HDPE. No big deal except shavings stick to everything.
Same here.
John
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Only advice to give is light cuts. The lighter the better.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
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I've done some UHMW, and maybe some imitators. It works fine (same with the planer) except for the mess.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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(06-27-2020, 06:34 PM)Pirate Wrote: 5 or so years ago I bought a PM50 jointer with solid carbide knives.
It had a sign on it saying, wood and plastics only.
Think it might have come from a Disney shop. Had M Mouse logo on it, and picked up near Disney.
So, has anyone jointed plastic?
Sounds scary to me.
I've edge jointed LOTS of acrylic and polycarbonate. With both, you need to be careful of the speed at which you feed it past the cutterhead. If you go too fast, you get ripples in the edge. If you feed it too slow, it can heat up and melt. I found that it was best to take a practice cut with a piece of scrap of the same material, and check the edge before I jointed the rest of it. If it looked OK, I ran the rest at the same speed I had used with the scrap. If it didn't look right, I ran the scrap again with a different speed until I had an acceptable edge, and ran the rest at that same approximate speed.
Rick W
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A little off-topic, but...
There is a process called "flame polishing" for cut edges of acrylic.
The concept is based on the idea that corners of the cut edges and the rough spots on the cut have more surface area than the actual sheet. You take either a heat gun or a butane burner with a spreader and play it back an forth over the cut surface. That causes the corners to melt slightly and give a smooth polished edges.
Try a test piece first. If you apply too much heat you will melt the sheet. Too little and there is not much polish-effect. It is really easy to do, you just have to watch the condition of the edge. As soon as it looks polished, move on to the next area.
This video shows it with a butane burner. I used a spreader. I don't know which is better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vx7MHdWXQvc
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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I know there’s a thread in the basement about planing plastic.
Don’t recall seeing the outcome, although there were requests for videos.
VH07V
