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Thanks: FWW did not give a reason for rejecting this, so its hard to tell if they had seen it already or if they just thought it was not very useful. I am batting about .500 on magazine submittals at this point, so no big deal. For anyone that does have this configuration on their BS (ie. round fence support) its a cheap/easy mod that, at least for me, has proven useful. I have an improved version of this idea being engineered while we speak. Stay tuned!
(07-13-2020, 07:10 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Nice idea, and pretty original. It is fairly common that I read a magazine or post that says here is a new tip, and I had seen it numerous times before. I don't even recall seeing your idea.
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When you get Adjuster v.2 done, remember that there are other magazines that will pay money for accepted tips. For example, Woodcraft magazine publishes a couple user-submitted tips per issue.
Bill Schneider
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Good to know. I had been submitting to FWW and PWW. AFAIK PWW no longer has a Tips/Tricks section.
(07-14-2020, 06:24 AM)Bill Schneider Wrote: When you get Adjuster v.2 done, remember that there are other magazines that will pay money for accepted tips. For example, Woodcraft magazine publishes a couple user-submitted tips per issue.
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For the TS and BS, I use one of the individual magswitch magnet assemblies or my magnetic featherboard and a deck of playing cards. Recently upgraded my portable chip/dust collection to a Festool CT15 and guess what? I got a deck of Festool branded playing cards!
Those really make the trick work so much better. Very high quality. Way better. (I think I just sprained my scarcasm bone there). But the playing cards and magswitch works great. Very similar to the stop collar above.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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(07-14-2020, 07:38 AM)Philip1231 Wrote: Good to know. I had been submitting to FWW and PWW. AFAIK PWW no longer has a Tips/Tricks section.
PWW barely has a magazine.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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Rob: sometimes in hard to know what is known and what is innovative. I am relatively new to the BS, and only recently have I discovered its utility for tenon cheeks. Well set up, with the correct blade, it can be a very precise way to get tenons very close to perfect. No doubt your approach will yield the same result. I have found that adjusting the fence at its mounting point, rather than on the table directly against the fence, gives me more precise/reliable results. Its like bumping the fence on the table saw: you get the fence right on with a bump, but when you go to lock the fence, it moves. Adjustment against the mounting point are more likely to yield better results. I agree, the graphics on the playing cards can only improve ones reults
Phil
(07-14-2020, 10:31 AM)Rob Young Wrote: For the TS and BS, I use one of the individual magswitch magnet assemblies or my magnetic featherboard and a deck of playing cards. Recently upgraded my portable chip/dust collection to a Festool CT15 and guess what? I got a deck of Festool branded playing cards!
Those really make the trick work so much better. Very high quality. Way better. (I think I just sprained my scarcasm bone there). But the playing cards and magswitch works great. Very similar to the stop collar above.
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(07-14-2020, 06:26 PM)Philip1231 Wrote: Rob: sometimes in hard to know what is known and what is innovative. I am relatively new to the BS, and only recently have I discovered its utility for tenon cheeks. Well set up, with the correct blade, it can be a very precise way to get tenons very close to perfect. No doubt your approach will yield the same result. I have found that adjusting the fence at its mounting point, rather than on the table directly against the fence, gives me more precise/reliable results. Its like bumping the fence on the table saw: you get the fence right on with a bump, but when you go to lock the fence, it moves. Adjustment against the mounting point are more likely to yield better results. I agree, the graphics on the playing cards can only improve ones reults
Phil
Philip, since you are new to this, you need to know that to prevent the fence moving which it is locked down, you push the lock section against the rail before locking it up.
For tenons, use a spacer for the second cheek cut ...
It is possible to dial this in with the Wixey (above) as the first cheek cut can be zeroed, ann simply the gauge for the width wanted.
I like the idea of a magnet or collar stop for the second setting.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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07-15-2020, 07:07 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-15-2020, 07:20 AM by Bill Schneider.)
Phil - With a straightforward modification to your fence, you can take out most of the "slop" that causes the fence to shift when you lock it. I read this clever idea from a fellow Woodnet member a few years back. It's not my idea and I don't remember the name of the contributor, but it deserves to be passed along. When I modified my own fence, I took some photos and created a web page of my own efforts.
https://www.afterness.com/woodworking/la...e_mod.html
This modification greatly reduces slop in the Laguna fence like you have. It might work for other fences too.
Bill Schneider
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Bill: hey that is a great idea. I think I mentioned at the start of this post that I wanted to avoid falling down the DIY rabbit hole. Unfortunately, I have fallen. I will be posting my "improved" micro-adjust feature as soon as I build it. Thanks for the link! Phil
(07-15-2020, 07:07 AM)Bill Schneider Wrote: Phil - With a straightforward modification to your fence, you can take out most of the "slop" that causes the fence to shift when you lock it. I read this clever idea from a fellow Woodnet member a few years back. It's not my idea and I don't remember the name of the contributor, but it deserves to be passed along. When I modified my own fence, I took some photos and created a web page of my own efforts.
https://www.afterness.com/woodworking/la...e_mod.html
This modification greatly reduces slop in the Laguna fence like you have. It might work for other fences too.
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