Shaker Sideboard: I'm In Fine Woodworking!

[Philip1231]

I have said before that I stay a lot more relaxed woodworking by following the credo of a long passed mentor from years ago.

 "It's not a mistake unless someone saw it happen, or you can't fix it.  Until then, consider it a learning experience or an flexible design change."




Nice recovery

I had a rocker in my woodshop at the old farm... For Just These Moments.
Rock, drink a soda or coffee, and plan the next move.

Sage advice.

[Hank Knight]

Bill/Hank: Thanks!

Hank: the original plans from Garrett Hack called for a molding similar to the one I used, but he applied the molding prior to doing the joinery on the door frame: seemed a little too complex, so I decided to go the simple Shaker route. As they say, its all good at this point. I will definitely consider this detail on my next build.

Philip,

I agree with you, Hack's process for the door panel molding is complicated. I applied mine the same way you did, after the door was glued together. That presented it's own issues: how to avoid gluing the molding to the panel, how to apply different finishes to the door frame and the molding/panel (this issue was probably unique to my project because of the finish I chose). Somehow I managed to figure it out and it turned out OK. Looks like yours is going to be fine too. Nice save! Why is it that the worst mistakes happen with the little things at the end of the project?

[Philip1231]

Hank: OK good to know that it looked complex to you as well: I don't feel so bad about re-reading the instructions with a blank look on my face. As for the molding attachment, I briefly thought about a pin nailer, but decided to just use a very small amount of glue. I waxed the bottom surface of the molding so that if/when I got any glue squeeze-out under the molding, it would not adhere the molding to the panel. As far as mistakes at the end of the project: I think its letting your guard down when you think the big challenges have been mastered and you are left with more routine tasks. Hopefully, that is the last big challenge, at least for this project. Phil

Philip,

I agree with you, Hack's process for the door panel molding is complicated. I applied mine the same way you did, after the door was glued together. That presented it's own issues: how to avoid gluing the molding to the panel, how to apply different finishes to the door frame and the molding/panel (this issue was probably unique to my project because of the finish I chose). Somehow I managed to figure it out and it turned out OK. Looks like yours is going to be fine too. Nice save! Why is it that the worst mistakes happen with the little things at the end of the project?

[Philip1231]

How Big Should A Jointer Be?:  so like many hobby woodworkers, I started out around 20 years ago with a 6" jointer (Jet). It
was perfect for the work I did back then, but as the years progressed, I found a want/need for something bigger. So I graduated to an 8" jointer, believing at the time that this was the jointer I would have forever. I outfitted it with a Shelix head, and it worked like a champ for a number of years. Then a couple of years ago, I decided that I wanted (if not needed) something bigger.  At first I thought about a 12" jointer, but then I decided to go for broke (literally) and move up to a 16" jointer. Well today, I took the 19" wide top for the hunt board down to my local shop to have it face jointed on their Oliver 20" behemoth. Moral of the story, whatever jointer width you end up with, there will always be some work that needs to be done that is even wider.
They did a nice job a Parkerville Wood Products in Manchester CT, and for a very fair price I might add. I think this panel is going to make a very nice top. Stay tuned.  

   

   

[Bill Holt]

Looks nice from here.

I would like to have a big jointer and big planer but that will never happen.  I do slab work now and then.  I get the bottom to where the slab will lie flat, then I take it to Fort Worth Plywood.  They have a 48" planer/sander/sander.  In the same pass it can plane, coarse sand, and finish sand.  They only charge $.50 per square foot per pass.

[Philip1231]

Nearly finished with finishing the doors/drawers:

   

   

[Pedder]

Hi Phil,

this is coming together pretty and pretty fast

Cheers
Pedder

[Philip1231]

You are too kind sir. I am trying to not let projects languish to the point that I get sick of working on them. I have noticed that as the production rate goes up, the quality has gone up (slightly) as well.

Hi Phil,

this is coming together pretty and pretty fast

Cheers
Pedder

[adamcherubini]

As this is the hand tools section of WN: I think a jointer is an easy tool to replace with hand planes for exactly the reasons you mention. They are never quite big enough. Ditto planers. I've made some pretty long, wide tables, and benches, and counter tops. Some got so large I couldn't imagine moving them across a jointer.

I've also seen pretty bad results from some machines - chatter marks that don't just sand out, sniping, etc. Hand planning may not be faster if you have the machines, but I prefer the surface and I can work wood of any size.

[barryvabeach]

I agree with Adam. I regularly make desk tops that are 30 to 36 inch wide by 6 feet long.   I use a 12 inch powered jointer planer to get the individual glue ups flat, then once the whole thing is glued together,   I use hand planes to get the top smooth.  Will it be as straight as coming off a powered jointer,  probably not, but I don't expect people to take a straight edge to a top. So long as you don't have great dips or high spots, most people won't notice that it is not perfectly flat across the entire top.