Electrolysis question
#11
I purchased a used bandsaw recently that came with 12 blades, two are rusty. Could I clean them up with electrolysis, or would that weaken the blades?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#12
I don't think it would weaken the blades. Not enough heat or voltage there to really do anything.

Questions:

Are they actually worth saving? Really long expensive ones?
Why are they rusty? Are they used, dull? Going to need sharpening anyway?

I'd probably pitch them in the scrap bin. But if I thought they were worth saving, I'd knock off all the rust I could with a wire brush, then mount them and start ripping some scrap. Let the wood knock the rest of the rust off.
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#13
Install them and run some wood through them. The rust will wear off.
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#14
That's my first impulse, too.  


Brush the tires down if the blades leave anything behind.  Or maybe gently steel wool any loose rust particles off first.  If they're that bad but you really want to keep them.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#15
Buy a gallon of Evapo-Rust. It's really good stuff.....and inexpensive.
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#16
(11-20-2020, 12:55 PM)Scouter Wrote: I purchased a used bandsaw recently that came with 12 blades, two are rusty. Could I clean them up with electrolysis, or would that weaken the blades?

They’re 3/4”, 93”, very sharp. Wouldn’t surprise me if he bought them and they just sat around.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#17
(11-21-2020, 06:20 AM)frule Wrote: Buy a gallon of Evapo-Rust. It's really good stuff.....and inexpensive.

Doesn’t seem to have good reviews on HD, and I have had good results with a simple electrolysis bath, just never with this thin a metal, and the weld point as well.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#18
All I can compare this with is rehabbing handsaws, and no sawsmith of repute I've known of recommends this or any chemicals for rust removal on saw plates, thin, spring steel might have the potential to play badly with anything other than abrasives.
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#19
I use evaporust a good bit. It works well for some things but it won't work well with a coiled blade. It really needs to have space around the piece to work well. Not sure why. I've also done electrolysis and imho, that would be tough with a blade too if it were coiled.

In both cases, if I could keep the blade uncoiled and only have a portion of it looped into the bucket, it would work better. Keep in mind, rust will only come off the side of the metal facing the electrode so either have several electrodes or keep moving the blade.

I'd put the blade in the saw and run it while pinching it with coarse scotch-brite.
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#20
(11-22-2020, 01:30 PM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: I use evaporust a good bit. It works well for some things but it won't work well with a coiled blade. It really needs to have space around the piece to work well. Not sure why. I've also done electrolysis and imho, that would be tough with a blade too if it were coiled.

In both cases, if I could keep the blade uncoiled and only have a portion of it looped into the bucket, it would work better. Keep in mind, rust will only come off the side of the metal facing the electrode so either have several electrodes or keep moving the blade.

I'd put the blade in the saw and run it while pinching it with coarse scotch-brite.

My bath is large enough to handle the blade. I use a threaded rod that lies flat at the bottom of the bath, from one end to the other. That said, i may try the pads first, couple of people have suggested that.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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