Which pocket hole jig?

[mdhills]

I've got one of the kregs that I like reasonably well, particularly for shop/garden projects.
I think the biggest challenge with them is avoiding the pieces shifting when driving the screw in.

I recently saw a youtube mention of the Castle pocket hole jig that uses a router to make a shallower pocket hole that reportedly improves the susceptibility to the pieces shifting.  It does require a 2-part operation (route the pocket then drill the pilot hole), but I'd take a hard look at it:
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veG3P0mUNME

Matt

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I bought the K5 about five years ago. I love it. No complaints.

[Cooler]

I would note that even the biggest, heaviest jigs will have a hard time with large pieces of plywood or large boards.  In those instances the very cheap clamp-on versions work far better.


Also note that pocket hole jigs are not always your best choice.  I choose between dowels, pocket holes, biscuits and tenons according to the situation.  For face frames, pocket holes are an excellent choice.  Dowels are too, but they are not as fast to execute.  I see biscuits used in magazine articles but they seem to be a poor choice for this application.

[Bill_de]

I've got one of the kregs that I like reasonably well, particularly for shop/garden projects.
I think the biggest challenge with them is avoiding the pieces shifting when driving the screw in.


Matt

After having my K3 for a short time I realized that one clamp type just wasn't enough. Whenever possible I prefer to clamp the pieces down onto the board. 

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[Cooler]

After having my K3 for a short time I realized that one clamp type just wasn't enough. Whenever possible I prefer to clamp the pieces down onto the board. 

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I have the Milescraft version and it works well too.

[Stwood_]

   

   


Most of my work is large, so a fixed cutter is better for me.

And I use the ViseGrip brand 8" clamp with pads.

[Cooler]

When I needed a new pocket hole jig it was a toss-up between the Porter-Cable unit ($160.00) and the CMT one ($80.00). 

I ended up with the Porter-Cable set (now discontinued), and I am happy with it.

The CMT Orange unit requires that you supply the mounting board and mount the components.  About 20 minutes of work.  If you do large items you can make a very large and stable base. 




Amazon pictures it assembled on a board at a lower price.  I don't know if the board is included (I don't think it is.  : https://www.amazon.com/CMT-PPJ-002-Pocke...B000Q97ZA8



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuU-EZNrmIk

[lift mechanic]

I have the Kreg K4, I have found it very useful. I added the Kreg HD and just finished a project with it. I did a test piece to see how strong it was. I cut 2 pieces of poplar 1 1/2" x 3" x 12" and screwed them together, no glue. I tried to break them apart with my bare hands, I could not separate them at all. The screws are larger and coated. It is not something that you would use all the time, but comes handy if you don't want to just toe nail it with a screw or nail.

[rudedan60]

I have both the K4 & K5, I use both. I mainly use the K4 with my HD jig for 2x4 material.  I picked up the PC version last year before it was discontinued.  I still need to set it up, considered one of the best ones out there.  I would also look at the Armor Pocket hole Jig as well.  That being said i have seen the k-5 online for about $99.99 at Rockler without the hand clamp, with clamp it is $139.99. The Armor version is about $140 without a hand clamp.  The one advantage I can see is that it auto-sets your clamp ring for material, then you tighten the ring. Hope this helps. Dan

[Terry W]

I would recommend getting both the R3 and K5 jig. I use both a lot. The K5 is great for most things but if it's big, heavy or bulky, sometimes it's easier to bring the tool to the material. That's where the R3 excels.