(02-25-2021, 07:39 AM)fishhh4 Wrote: Tom, that one would fit. The motor runs off of 230 volts though. I know the old one says 110-125 but that's not to say someone stuck the wrong one in there at one time. It has started flawlessly for the last three that I have had it.
That motor is 115/230V rated. The start winding is in parallel with one of the two main windings, so regardless of which voltage it's configured for (through reconnection of the internal leads), both main windings and the start winding are actually running at 120V.
Imagine two 120V light bulbs. Wire them in parallel and connect to 120V and each bulb 'sees' 120V and everything is Jake.
Reconfigure the wiring so the two bulbs are in series but connect to 240V. Now each bulb drops half the voltage (120V), so again, they're both running at 120V and everything is Jake.
Now add a small bulb in parallel with one of the two big bulbs and do that mental exercise again. The small bulb will 'see' 120V whether the two main bulbs are in series on 240V or in parallel on 120V.
The start winding is wired in parallel with one of the two run windings, but it's only in the circuit for a fraction of a second while it starts, until the centrifugal switch opens and takes the starting winding and capacitor out of the circuit. Since the start winding is in parallel with one of the two run windings, it will 'see' approximately 120V while starting regardless of the voltage the motor is connected for. So a 120V capacitor is what it needs, even configured for and connected to 240V power.
The EE's out there are lifting an eyebrow
because the voltage dropped across each winding on 240V isn't exactly the same, at least until the start winding cuts out, but it's close enough for this discussion.