Do you actually use 52ish inch rip capacity?

[MT Woodworker]

I set mine up for 48" rip, so I could end cut a 4x8 sheet.

A tablesaw *is* for ripping/cutting down sheet stock.

If you have the right setup and if you can physically handle sheet stock.
Stuff gets heavier as you get older.
I have no problem pre-cutting sheet stock, much easier for me.

[Stwood_]

If you have the right setup and if you can physically handle sheet stock.
Stuff gets heavier as you get older.
I have no problem pre-cutting sheet stock, much easier for me.

Output table....saw table extensions left and right, and a roll table to the rear of you, to be able to stand the ply on the saw and on the table behind you, so you can lay the sheet down on the saw, helps tremendously.

I still can handle 3/4 ply ok getting it to the tablesaw, but PB.....ummmm, not so much. Luckily I seldom ever use PB unless I make a counter top.

[MT Woodworker]

Output table....saw table extensions left and right, and a roll table to the rear of you, to be able to stand the ply on the saw and on the table behind you, so you can lay the sheet down on the saw, helps tremendously.

I still can handle 3/4 ply ok getting it to the tablesaw, but PB.....ummmm, not so much. Luckily I seldom ever use PB unless I make a counter top.

What type of output table?  I want to add one to my table saw, looking for ideas, thoughts.
I like the idea of a rear roller table.

Thanks

[KC]

I considered going with the 30" when I replaced my saw last year, but stayed with the 52".  I don't need it all the time, but I've used it enough over the years that I decided it was worth the space.

[Cooler]

What type of output table?  I want to add one to my table saw, looking for ideas, thoughts.
I like the idea of a rear roller table.

Thanks

I built a MFT table equivalent and I use it as both an outfeed table and a pocket hole assembly station.  Very handy.  I mounted it on adjustable height legs.  I started with the table the same height as the saw and smaller profiles were hanging up.  I ended up with the table about 1/4" below the height of the saw.  I've been thinking of adding a ramp and returning the table to saw height. 

Before that I had a roller stand for outfeed and another for infeed.  The table works well.  I have dowels mounted on the sides to hold saw blades and inserts and I have peg board on  one side for hanging accessories.  A lower shelf holds all my pocket hole equipment and supplies.

[kurt18947]

I am looking at getting a new table saw and am undecided between 36 and 52 inch. Seems the 36 inch would fit way better in my garage but I don't want to have to cry twice so I'd rather buy the bigger if there's a reason. Don't most cut down sheet goods BEFORE they hit the TS? Is there any other reason to need more than 36 inch?

Thanks for your opinion in advance.

I can't/don't want to deal with 4 X 8 sheets of anything, I don't have the room. I have a home made right tablesaw wing, made from a piece of counter top. It has a router plate let into it. Capacity to the right of the blade is 27" and I don't find it limiting. Saw is mobile and I do have an accurate jig for using a P-C 314 saw for breaking down sheet goods. I've considered a track saw but don't feel like I do enough with sheet goods to be worthwhile. If I were a busy or commercial shop I might feel differently.

[MstrCarpenter]

I have 52" capacity rail with a Delta Uni-fence on a right tilt Unisaw with a table that wraps from the rail end around to the back for an out-feed table. It is constantly in use. It's a lot like that "coin pusher" arcade game!


I have an older Uni dedicated to ripping; came with with the cast extensions on each side with the original round rails and fence with a stock feeder mounted on them. It only rips just over 24", but with the other one a few feet away, it's not a factor. I just have to clear it off completely, which isn't really very often.

[Stwood_]

What type of output table?  I want to add one to my table saw, looking for ideas, thoughts.
I like the idea of a rear roller table.

Thanks

Nothing fancy, a 4'x7' legged table with some scrap 1/2" strand board on top.

[handi]

Output table....saw table extensions left and right, and a roll table to the rear of you, to be able to stand the ply on the saw and on the table behind you, so you can lay the sheet down on the saw, helps tremendously.

I still can handle 3/4 ply ok getting it to the tablesaw, but PB.....ummmm, not so much. Luckily I seldom ever use PB unless I make a counter top.

Not sure how this set up cuts a straight edge. You simply cannot work off a plywood factory edge.

In cabinet shops we used a 16+ foot sliding table to trim the edge before placing it against a fence. 

In my shop a circular saw trims the first edge.

[Stwood_]

Not sure how this set up cuts a straight edge. You simply cannot work off a plywood factory edge.

In cabinet shops we used a 16+ foot sliding table to trim the edge before placing it against a fence. 

In my shop a circular saw trims the first edge.

Yea there's always a few that say that. You must have gotten stuck with reject plywood is about all I can think of.