Edge Banding bits
#11
I've been looking at plywood edge banding bits, basically 2 styles are available, a V-style and one with a center tongue and groove. Any pros and cons for the different styles from those of you that have used them? Either one more forgiving or easier to set up? Thanks for your opinions.

Paul
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#12
I always try to edge band two at a time, I glue 1/2 x 3/4 between two shelves etc.. which only leaves about .020" tolerance with the under-sized plywood, or 3/4 x 3/4 using a V, in which leaves them about 1/8" high, and after ripping with a thin kerf and sanding, there's only about 1/16" left to round over.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#13
Those plywood edge bits seem like a solution in search of a problem to me. 
Simple wood strips glued on the edge of plywood have never failed me and are never going to come loose properly glued. I use blue painters tape to hold the strips in position and clamp two panels together edge strip to edge strip using the plywood panels as a caul.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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#14
(08-19-2021, 05:47 AM)KyleD Wrote: Those plywood edge bits seem like a solution in search of a problem to me. 
Simple wood strips glued on the edge of plywood have never failed me

That's kinda what I was thinking as well. Paul, is there a specific reason you're considering them?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#15
Mostly I iron-on, but I have also used my tongue and groove bit set. 

I first cut the groove in the shelf.  I then cut the tongue on BOTH edges of a wide board.

I then clamp up two shelves, and finally, I rip the wide board leaving the band in place. 

The nice part of this setup is that the tongue and groove bit has proven useful even though I have not used it for edge banding in years. 

By gluing up two shelves at one time I reduce the number of clamps I need. 

And by ripping the edges after glue-up, I eliminate the need to rip really narrow strips (and the attendant kick-back issue).
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#16
The reasons I am going to try a set out are, to help add a bit of support to the shelves (to prevent long term sagging) and I thought the additional surface area would provide a better long term bond between the wood and the strip of wood with a reduced chance of failure. I was just wondering if anyone had any preference between the two styles. I normally make shelves of solid wood no less than 7/8 inch thick, but I'm going to make up some shelves for storage of tools and supplies and plywood is more economical and quicker to doo than a bunch of glue-ups. 

Paul 

Bel Air, MD
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#17
That's a good approach (plywood with solid edges) but you really don't need the edge bits. The glue bond between the solid edging and the plywood is plenty strong, Another point is that you can make the edge strips a little thicker than the plywood and make them flush on the top surface...that makes an ever stronger shelf. In the case of a thicker edge strip, if you're still concerned about glue ji=oint strength you could put a small rabbet in the strip such that it has a small section that goes under the bottom of the shelf. Like this:

   
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
Paul, 
Edging the plywood shelf fronts with a wider piece of wood is a great way to keep sag form happening. Wrapping the wood around the bottom edge of the shelf like Fred illustrated so well is the way to go. Plywood is very stable and you are glueing along the long grain of the wood strip. 

I have wood strip supported particle board shelfs full of metal scraps in an un-heated or insulated metal shed that are over twenty years old that are still solidly attached. I would eat my hat if the strip ever came loose from the shelf provided it was properly glued on with good alphatic glue. Plus there is room for reinforcement with screws from the bottom if you want to belt and suspenders it. 

If you want to use the edging bits you are looking at then do by all means. There is a reason many if us call ourselves hobby woodworkers. We do what interests us. It sounds like a an edge profile bit has caught your interest. Keep in mind it will be fiddly to route the profiles so the bottom of the wood strip is in good glue contact with the bottom of the shelf along with the front of the shelf and wood strip profile. I do not have any experience with the profiles so cannot help you with your original question. Hopefully someone can come along here and give you some first hand advice.

Good luck with however you decide to do it.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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#19
Fred and Kyle, 
      Thanks for the input. Honestly, the only plywood shelves I've ever made I made for pre-existing garage cabinets. I've always used 5/4 boards finished to 1 inch or more for every cabinet or bookcase I ever built. I've always looked towards the long term on building and I try to exceed needs to insure I never have a failure. In this case, I opened a shop this spring and I need to build a cabinet under a stairwell for tool storage and supplies. I didn't want to spend a lot of time gluing up a bunch of shelves so I'm going with plywood and I was concerned about sagging. That's why I was considering the edge banding bits and gluing on a 2 inch wide board for extra support. I agree Fred's idea is great, that's why I posted because I know there are many people on this forum with different experience. 
       I have always been willing to help a fellow woodworker and I've been lucky to have others help me. So, Thank's for the idea Fred, I will be using it. 

Paul
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#20
I've never used them. Butt and glue that's all you need.
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