moisture barrier under vinyl plank flooring
#11
I am getting ready to install some in my basement. It will go on a dry concrete floor. Hard to get a straight answer on the web.
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#12
What did the manufacturer's instructions say?

I followed those on deciding to do without under the vinyl plank in my basement.
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#13
It isn't necessary. Vinyl plank in itself is a moisture barrier. Moisture won't hurt it. Basement floor moisture is from condensation on the cool surface, not from the ground.. unless the basement was flooded. So if there's condensation/moisture, it will be on top of the vinyl plank where moist air comes in contact with it. This is the main reason vinyl plank is installed in basements, as well as vinyl tile. If the plank installation recommendations call for a pad or a barrier, it's to help it "float" and provide a bit of cushion for comfort, not for moisture protection. Also, if you but down a pad, pay attention to it's thickness and make sure it falls within the mfg's recommendations. Too thick, the seams will break on the planks and warranty won't cover it.
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#14
Just make sure the manufacturer doesn't require it for warranty purposes.  We purchased a vinyl plank floor and in order to preserve the warranty, we had to lay a moisture barrier down underneath it, even though it's 100% waterproof (for floating floor).  Moisture barrier wasn't required if we were to glue it down.  From a floating floor perspective, the moisture barrier does help quiet the floor down a bit (we installed a section with and without a moisture barrier and you can definitely tell the difference noise-wise walking on the two.
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#15
I have done this in a kitchen on slab.  I required plastic sheeting underneath to allow for ease of movement from what they told me.
The floor has 4.5 years no issues in a rental.
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#16
We just had a floor laid in three rooms of the new home by pros.  It's what they do.  Vinyl plank, lifetime warranty, waterproof.  The used regular tar paper underneath and duct taped the ends and edges.  Floor looks great. 
Big Grin

The flooring was quality mid range plank, with a pad glued to the bottom. The pros still put down the tar paper.
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#17
OK, so I'm resurrecting a year-old thread.

I installed vinyl plank in the basement nearly six years ago.  As I responded in the thread above, I didn't put vapor barrier under my vinyl plank back in the winter of 2015-2016.  The installation instructions that came with the flooring said no vapor barrier.

Well, I'm getting mold formation under the floor, and it's becoming apparent in the seams between the planks.

I run a dehumidifier down there 6 months out of the year because of high humidity levels.

I need to pull the floor and deal with the mold, and then I need to install a new floor.

The basement space is used nearly every day.  There's about 650 square feet of finished space, and about 500 square feet of mechanical room/storage with painted concrete.

So, I guess the real question is what to do about a new floor?  Any recommendations?  Open to laminate, different vinyl plank product?  Moisture barrier?  I'm not keen on paint.

Suggestions and discussion welcome.
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#18
Have the concrete polished. How much they grind is is up to you and your budget. Polishing the cap is typical and it also can be colored with stain. Grinding just below the cap will often reveal "salt and pepper" (this would be the sand used in the concrete). Below that is the aggregate. Exposed aggregate is similar to terrazzo. The sheen can be anywhere from satin to super high gloss (comparable to polished granite counter-tops). You can ask that a test be done. Once the floor is polished, it is simple to maintain; basically sweep and mop to keep it clean.  It also takes very little effort to bring the shine back in high traffic areas and will blend perfectly. 

To help get past the sticker shock, consider that (especially in a residential setting) this is permanent solution.
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#19
(09-01-2021, 09:55 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Have the concrete polished. How much they grind is is up to you and your budget. Polishing the cap is typical and it also can be colored with stain. Grinding just below the cap will often reveal "salt and pepper" (this would be the sand used in the concrete). Below that is the aggregate. Exposed aggregate is similar to terrazzo. The sheen can be anywhere from satin to super high gloss (comparable to polished granite counter-tops). You can ask that a test be done. Once the floor is polished, it is simple to maintain; basically sweep and mop to keep it clean.  It also takes very little effort to bring the shine back in high traffic areas and will blend perfectly. 

To help get past the sticker shock, consider that (especially in a residential setting) this is permanent solution.

Interesting.  I had only thought of the epoxy coverings that i'm not a fan of.

I've seen polished concrete in homes and I like the look.

Have you had it done, and was there an approximate cost per sq ft?

I did look up some local firms, and there was one who actively advertised for residential work; their gallery was all pics of outside, garage. and patio work.
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#20
We used CoreTec Plus HD vinyl plank in our basement.  It has a cork backing that acts as both an underlayment/insulation layer and moisture barrier.  We purchased it through a local flooring supplier in central PA.  From what I've seen, there are different qualities of vinyl plank that include thickness of the wear layer, thickness of the overall planks, backing or not, etc.  This product is extremely durable and has been great.  We were told by the supplier if it does get wet, the floor can be taken up dried and reinstalled with no issues or problems ... I would think if I ever had to do this, I'd have to number each plank to make sure they go back in the same order.
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