Ripping a 6ft board

[theguch]

I'm trying to rip the edge off of a 6ft 2x10 doug fir board on my table saw. I'm having trouble controlling such a long board and I've so far managed to bog the blade down to a stop. What is the proper method to do something like this? Do I need to add a feather board so I have pressure against the fence? Trying not to injure myself! Thanks in advance for your help.

[Rob Young]

I'm trying to rip the edge off of a 6ft 2x10 doug fir board on my table saw. I'm having trouble controlling such a long board and I've so far managed to bog the blade down to a stop. What is the proper method to do something like this? Do I need to add a feather board so I have pressure against the fence? Trying not to injure myself! Thanks in advance for your help.

If the blade is being pinched then the kerf is closing. That is a sign of internal tension in the board.

At the minimum:

• add a riving knife or splitter behind the blade
  
• use a feather board in front of the blade (never against or behind the blade) to help hold things steady against the fence
  
• use an outfeed table or rollers (watch out for roller height vs. droop of the material) for extra support.
  

And if you are able to stop the blade with a 2x10 I'm assuming this is a contractor saw or smaller? One option would be to sneak up on things such that you make multiple passes through the blade. Each time taking off only a blade width or perhaps just a bit more. This leaves so little material on the left of the blade it can't pinch. But it also means you can't rip the 2x10 "in half" and have 2 pieces.

[Aram]

If the blade is being pinched then the kerf is closing. That is a sign of internal tension in the board.

At the minimum:

• add a riving knife or splitter behind the blade
  
• use a feather board in front of the blade (never against or behind the blade) to help hold things steady against the fence
  
• use an outfeed table or rollers (watch out for roller height vs. droop of the material) for extra support.
  

And if you are able to stop the blade with a 2x10 I'm assuming this is a contractor saw or smaller? One option would be to sneak up on things such that you make multiple passes through the blade. Each time taking off only a blade width or perhaps just a bit more. This leaves so little material on the left of the blade it can't pinch. But it also means you can't rip the 2x10 "in half" and have 2 pieces.

Another thought on top of this excellent advice. Do you have a bandsaw? if you do, one option is to rip the board a little wide on the bandsaw, then move to the table saw, heeding the advice you have gotten.

Just a thought.

[wood-chips]

Another consideration is when ripping a board with "problems" is to rip it wider than the final dimension if possible.  Because when you rip the board and relieve stresses, the board may do several dimensional changes, one of which is to bow. If that happens, the finished dimension ripped board will be too narrow after you straighten the ripped edge.

In the past when I've had unruly boards, and I have enough material, I'll rip a saw kerf off of each edge of the board before making the rip cut. Generally this will relieve a lot of stresses and minimize bowing.

[mike4244]

I'm trying to rip the edge off of a 6ft 2x10 doug fir board on my table saw. I'm having trouble controlling such a long board and I've so far managed to bog the blade down to a stop. What is the proper method to do something like this? Do I need to add a feather board so I have pressure against the fence? Trying not to injure myself! Thanks in advance for your help.

You got good advice . I will add a couple of thoughts. Your saw may be underpowered for this rip. Use a thin kerf blade with 24 TPI or less. 
This is a dedicated rip blade. A feather board may help. Mske sure it is installed so the force is completely before the blade. Otherwise the board will pinch the blade. Set blade height so a full tooth or more is above the board.If you have " Board buddies " or a similar hold down system, this helps and the feather board is not needed.
I used to rip 10/4 and 12/4 beech or maple for benches. Also ripped softwoods like yellow pine and Douglas fir for softwood benches. 
I started out with a contractors saw, used a thin kerf blade. I got an order for 20 softwood benches for lab bench work. 
Quickly bought a 3hp cabinet saw. Not often , but once in awhile I would get a batch of reaction wood. Makes nice firewood.
If the kerf closes up around the blade , it is reaction wood. You can get thru this with a small wooden wedge. Tap the wedge into the kerf ahead of the blade. If you are working by yourself the shut the saw down first. Then drive a wedge into the kerf to widen the kerf.
mike

[mound]

All great replies about why this can be tricky on a tablesaw and how to do it safely. 

Another option, if you have bandsaw, use that instead.  The thin kerf and downward cutting action will make it much safer and easier to manage.

[Cooler]

I have that problem when I rip a piece of pressure treated 2" x 8".

My older saw does not have a riving knife, I added a splitter, but with the pressure treated I stop the saw after about 2 feet and drive a wedge in the kerf. That keeps it open and eliminates the binding.

[Splinter Puller]

I'm trying to rip the edge off of a 6ft 2x10 doug fir board on my table saw. I'm having trouble controlling such a long board and I've so far managed to bog the blade down to a stop. What is the proper method to do something like this? Do I need to add a feather board so I have pressure against the fence? Trying not to injure myself! Thanks in advance for your help.

Lots of tips.  If I have to mess with a piece of stressed wood like that I sometimes rip the 2x half way through on the tablesaw and then finish with a skilsaw or on the bandsaw

[barnowl]

I'm trying to rip the edge off of a 6ft 2x10 doug fir board on my table saw. I'm having trouble controlling such a long board and I've so far managed to bog the blade down to a stop. What is the proper method to do something like this? Do I need to add a feather board so I have pressure against the fence? Trying not to injure myself! Thanks in advance for your help.

Also sounds like the edge of the board riding along the rip fence might not be straight.

If it's bowed at all, it will pinch your blade.

The cure is to mount your board to a known true and square board (or plywood) with a couple of screws, and use that board against the fence.

That way, you'll have trued one edge on your board when you're done.

Then, you can flip it over, and use your trued edge against the fence, in order to true the other edge.

Now, both edges will be parallel, and true.

[Bob10]

If you go with the thin kerf blade as suggested you can get a 7 1/2" skilsaw blade to get it done.  Easy to find any place without breaking the bank.
I was ripping tons of small stock for beekeeping and the thin kerf disposable blade worked for me