SawStop question -- 1.75 vs 3 hp
#21
I have the 1.75 and 120v.  Google says is can be rewired, with folks saying they get better performance with 240v.  I've bogged mine down twice now on 8/4 material (cherry and oak).
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#22
(03-21-2022, 09:20 AM)rschissler Wrote: The 220v 3hp will be a lot quieter.  Something else to consider.

The Sawstop 120v is just as quiet as my 3HP Xacta was... maybe quieter.
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#23
(03-21-2022, 09:20 AM)rschissler Wrote: The 220v 3hp will be a lot quieter.  Something else to consider.

How?  A 3 phase motor is quieter than a single phase, but if both motors are single phase like what's being considered there will be no discernable difference.  

John
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#24
(03-21-2022, 11:22 AM)KC Wrote: I have the 1.75 and 120v.  Google says is can be rewired, with folks saying they get better performance with 240v.  I've bogged mine down twice now on 8/4 material (cherry and oak).

Urban legend.  There is no difference in power for the same motor whether wired at 120 or 240 V as long as the wiring can handle the amps required.  

John
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#25
(03-21-2022, 02:16 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Urban legend.  There is no difference in power for the same motor whether wired at 120 or 240 V as long as the wiring can handle the amps required.  

John

Agreed,  a motor may get up to speed faster because of less voltage drop with starting current but that would not mean anything because would be up to speed before the wood touches the blade and then no difference if wired for the load.   Roly
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#26
(03-21-2022, 02:16 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Urban legend.  There is no difference in power for the same motor whether wired at 120 or 240 V as long as the wiring can handle the amps required.  

John

Just passing along what many self proclaimed 'experts' on the Google say.  People have been yakking about that both ways on forums as long as I can remember.. which is well over 20 years.
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#27
(03-21-2022, 05:16 PM)KC Wrote: Just passing along what many self proclaimed 'experts' on the Google say.  People have been yakking about that both ways on forums as long as I can remember.. which is well over 20 years.

With the internet everyone is an expert.  And some of them are.  

Franklin said it pretty well.  "Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see." (or read, w/o verification). 

John  
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#28
(03-20-2022, 11:20 AM)Wild Turkey Wrote: As I sit here admiring the dozen stitches the doc put in my left index finger after cleaning up cut from dado that didn't heal my adult sons are making it clear they would much prefer that I sell my vintage Unisaw and get a SawStop.  They can be as subtle as their dear mother and there's two of them so I am clearly outclassed.

So as I study the situation the big question is power.

The 1.75 HP version is listed as 110v -- is it convertible to 220 v or is 110 plenty?

My current Unisaw has a 52" fence but I'm studying it carefully to see if I really need that much fence.

Any other factors I should consider in deciding which one to go with? 
Confused  
Confused
Were you using two push pads doing dados?
Happiness Is: Seeing that brown truck pull up in front of the house.
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#29
I went from a very nice factory refurbed 3 HP Unisaw to a 3 HP Sawstop PCS when they initially came out in 2008; bought it directly from Sawstop on their Field Test program. Excellent tablesaw in every way that has never disappointed or bogged down during a cut; runs on 220v.

Would do it again to not have "buyer's remorse" because of a lack of horsepower.

Doug
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#30
Get as much HP as you can afford.

1.75 hp would be underpowered for my local Australian hardwoods. My first tablesaw was 2 hp, and this struggled. I upgraded the motor to 3 hp, and it began to sing. Now I have Hammer K3, which has 4 hp. This is so markedly different from the 2 hp that it is not even a comparison.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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