Aluminum Files

[BC in CT]

Thanks that definitely helps to clarify things

[MT Woodworker]

2 of my vixen files made in USA, the third is made in France.

A lot of my files, for either wood, steel, or aluminum, I have owned for over 40 years.

[maswindell]

2 of my vixen files made in USA, the third is made in France.

A lot of my files, for either wood, steel, or aluminum, I have owned for over 40 years.

I'll second the Vixen files they cut fast and leave a fine finish. I bought some Vixen files from the www.yardstore.com

[adamcherubini]

Can someone answer why one would need high quality files for aluminum? Why not Mexican made Nicholsons?

The problem with cheap files is that they dull quickly on steel. Should be able to use any flea market files for aluminum.

[Alan S]

Can someone answer why one would need high quality files for aluminum? Why not Mexican made Nicholsons?

The problem with cheap files is that they dull quickly on steel. Should be able to use any flea market files for aluminum.

I have not used them on aluminum, but the vixen files (designed for aluminum) are a lot like floats, but with curved teeth, very different from files for steel.  They cut fast and smoothly, and I use mine for wood.  They are much cheaper than floats.

[Tapper]

Following along - no file expert here but I inherited quite a few "vintage" files of varying brands and shapes from my dad, the machinist. A couple of questions:

1) Is it OK to soak rusty files in Evaporust?
2) How about cleaning the teeth with a fine bristle brass brush?

Thanks,

Doug

FWIW I recently ruined an old file I picked up at a flea market sale by leaving it to soak in Simple Green for too long; ate up the teeth.

[Timberwolf]

Following along - no file expert here but I inherited quite a few "vintage" files of varying brands and shapes from my dad, the machinist. A couple of questions:

1) Is it OK to soak rusty files in Evaporust?
2) How about cleaning the teeth with a fine bristle brass brush?

Thanks,

Doug

FWIW I recently ruined an old file I picked up at a flea market sale by leaving it to soak in Simple Green for too long; ate up the teeth.

........................
Doug, I don't know about Evapo Rust but I have soaked them in vinegar..rinse well afterwards.....A Brass brush won't harm them, but I also use a flat piece of brass as a "pusher" that removes particles of metal swarf that gets "pinned" or trapped in the grooves of the teeth. For stubborn pins, I use a small piece of steel rod about 1/8" diameter that I have ground to a point...Drill rod makes a good pusher and the point serves to shove out trapped particles. You can also buy a "file card" that has a few steel wires that push out the swarf and some come with a steel pin for the grooves that are hard to clean out with a brush. I have had the same one since I was an apprentice machinist 75yrs ago. "Chalking" files helps to prevent "pinning" of the grooves...Brushes should be held so that the wire bristles rub against the direction the files are designed to cut..I have seen many files that were completely ruined by attempting to clean them using a wire wheel on a bench grinder. And of course, files must never be allowed to touch one another. I make a cardboard "scabbard" for my best ones, just using post office flat rate boxes and duct tape.

[Tapper]

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Doug, I don't know about Evapo Rust but I have soaked them in vinegar..rinse well afterwards.....A Brass brush won't harm them, but I also use a flat piece of brass as a "pusher" that removes particles of metal swarf that gets "pinned" or trapped in the grooves of the teeth. For stubborn pins, I use a small piece of steel rod about 1/8" diameter that I have ground to a point...Drill rod makes a good pusher and the point serves to shove out trapped particles. You can also buy a "file card" that has a few steel wires that push out the swarf and some come with a steel pin for the grooves that are hard to clean out with a brush. I have had the same one since I was an apprentice machinist 75yrs ago. "Chalking" files helps to prevent "pinning" of the grooves...Brushes should be held so that the wire bristles rub against the direction the files are designed to cut..I have seen many files that were completely ruined by attempting to clean them using a wire wheel on a bench grinder. And of course, files must never be allowed to touch one another. I make a cardboard "scabbard" for my best ones, just using post office flat rate boxes and duct tape.

Hi Jack,

Well, I've unknowingly already violated one of your Cardinal rules; my files are stacked in a drawer in my tool box, but I digress. I do have a file card and it seems to work fairly well. The brass brush I have is pretty effective since I can scrub vigorously without worrying about damaging the file teeth.

Not sure I'm clear on the direction you mention. I normally scrub parallel to the grooves in order to remove the swarf in them. Many of these files have a light coat of rust on them, having resided on the Gulf Coast for most of their lives. I have used various pointed objects in the past to clear out the difficult particles that clog the teeth. Think I'll give the Evaporust a try later on a single file. BTW, does the vinegar treatment remove rust?

Thanks,

Doug

[Timberwolf]

Hi Jack,

Well, I've unknowingly already violated one of your Cardinal rules; my files are stacked in a drawer in my tool box, but I digress. I do have a file card and it seems to work fairly well. The brass brush I have is pretty effective since I can scrub vigorously without worrying about damaging the file teeth.

Not sure I'm clear on the direction you mention. I normally scrub parallel to the grooves in order to remove the swarf in them. Many of these files have a light coat of rust on them, having resided on the Gulf Coast for most of their lives. I have used various pointed objects in the past to clear out the difficult particles that clog the teeth. Think I'll give the Evaporust a try later on a single file. BTW, does the vinegar treatment remove rust?

Thanks,

Doug

....................
Doug, brushing the grooves parallel is the way I do it also, but I try to keep more of the force pushing "against" the grooves rather than allowing the bristles to sweep down over the file's cutting edges. IOW, pushing the brush "against the grain" while moving it parallel, is the best way I can think of to describe it... In USE, It is very important to "Lift" the file clear of the work on the back stroke...the file will stay sharp much longer.....newbees tend to let the file slide backwards while in contact with the work but that is hard on a sharp file and it will soon get dull..then they complain that the file is "no good"....Besides, "backwards" is not the way they are designed to cut...They cut by "stubbing"...not trailing.

Strong vinegar is a pretty good rust remover and is much cheaper than Evaporust..Household vinegar is only about 4% acidic so it works slowly..you can buy MUCH stronger vinegar at Lowes or HD...After "de-rusting", a thorough rinse in water with baking soda added will neutralize any acid residue, then use compressed air or hair dryer to help dry the file, after which spray lightly with WD40 to prevent rust forming again...Blow the WD40 off {lightly} with compressed air afterwards...otherwise the oil in it will tend to retain the swarf later on.

I think it is a good idea to store all tools with cutting edges away from other cutting tools..like kitchen knives for example. Tossing them in a drawer to rub against other knives when the drawer is opened and closed is a good way to ruin a really sharp edge that is as thin as moisture on a window pane. A scabbard can protect them...

I may be preaching to the choir here, because I am pretty sure most folks know most all this.

[Tapper]

Thanks Jack. Some of this is common sense but I've learned some things here about maintenance and storage. Will try to pick up some of that stronger vinegar soon. Thanks again to you and all for the tips and suggestions.

Doug