Posts: 1,189
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2009
06-29-2022, 11:53 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-29-2022, 11:57 AM by TyG.)
For the finish coats on pine flooring, what is your recommendation?
Waterbased poly, solvent poly, tung oil finish blend, pure tung oil?
I've seen stuff on the web for all of these.
Please give me your experience.
Posts: 892
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Trout Creek, Montana
A soft wood flooring will scratch no matter what finish you use. I installed a circular sawn duglas flooring six years ago. I used a Minwax oil stain. Then 2 coats of Bona Mega satin finish. Then 2 coats of Bona Traffic satin. It has held up well except for the stairs. The dogs nails wore through the finish after 3 years. Bona products are water base and quite easy to "squeegee" on. Dries fast, I put 2 coats per day.
Treat others as you want to be treated.
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” — Mae West.
24- year cancer survivor
Posts: 21,881
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2003
We installed natural, heart pine 5-1/2” wide pine flooring 22 years ago.
There’s a couple of places where lack of care caused scratches or dings.
The majority of the flooring still looks great.
It’s three coats of solvent poly.
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
Posts: 1,407
Threads: 2
Joined: Jun 2003
07-07-2022, 09:06 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-07-2022, 09:07 AM by rwe2156.)
I would never use solvent based unless you can move out for at least a week and put up with residual odor.
Water based is less smelly, dries faster, so you can put 3 coats on in one day.
Posts: 769
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: ATL
One of Bona’s offerings -or- Rubio Monocoat.
Posts: 4,444
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
(06-29-2022, 11:53 AM)TyG Wrote: For the finish coats on pine flooring, what is your recommendation?
Waterbased poly, solvent poly, tung oil finish blend, pure tung oil?
I've seen stuff on the web for all of these.
Please give me your experience.
Amber shellac, 1-1/2 lb cut. Add successive coats for color wanted. I built a staircase from yellow pine, not treated . The home had heart pine flooring and the yellow pine treads and risers were a close match. I think I brushed 4 coats of de-waxed amber shellac . The stairs still look new . I did this 23 years ago. I do not recall a varnish topcoat, just the shellac. Use de-waxed shellac if you topcoat with varnish.
mike
Posts: 769
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: ATL
(07-07-2022, 07:26 PM)mike4244 Wrote: Amber shellac, 1-1/2 lb cut. Add successive coats for color wanted. I built a staircase from yellow pine, not treated . The home had heart pine flooring and the yellow pine treads and risers were a close match. I think I brushed 4 coats of de-waxed amber shellac . The stairs still look new . I did this 23 years ago. I do not recall a varnish topcoat, just the shellac. Use de-waxed shellac if you topcoat with varnish.
mike
That works , but the products I mentioned are one coat affairs and don't need alcohol as a carrier.
Posts: 4,647
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2008
07-15-2022, 05:24 AM
whatever you choose, if you apply multiple coats, use gloss except on the last coat. go satin on last coat. using satin for all coats can make the floors look cloudy.
satin as the topcoat helps hide wear and tear. gloss highlights wear and tear.
