Garage Door Opener Problems - Liftmaster Model 1280R
#11
I have had a Liftmaster 1280R 1/2HP garage door opener installed and working since 1999 (Mfg date 07/99) and it seems to have suddenly given up the ghost.  It operates my double-garage door.  I bought the house in late 2011 from folks who had never lived in it.  So from 1999 to 2011, the house saw very little use and the wear and tear on everything within the house was absolutely minimal to nil.  The house was in brand new condition when I bought it.

At the time, when I pressed the button, the garage door opened, but when I pressed the button a few minutes later, to shut it, it did not react at all.  When I press the wired button or the button on the remote, I can hear a clicking sound at the opener, as if a relay is being energized, but nothing happens.  So I know the garage door opener is receiving the signal from both the remote and the wired button.  However, I can't pinpoint the source of the clicking sound.  I waited a while to see whether the overload protector had tripped, and then tried again, but that didn't help either.  It still would not operate the next day.  Here's the manual:
http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/cgi/p...f?u=gsn58x

I cleaned the sensors with some 20-yr old Pappy (ha, just kidding - it was isopropyl alcohol) and made sure that all the wires to them were clean and without breaks.  I also checked the spring tension and it is OK.  I can disengage the opener and raise and lower the door manually with very little effort.

I took out the motor capacitor and checked it with my multi-meter and it is spot on - the reading (57.5 micro-Farads) is exactly half way between the range.  The capacitor is in good shape and does not show any signs of bloating or leakage.  So I know that ain't the problem.  I've searched the web and all I could find was a guy on YouTube who said he had the same symptoms and changing the controller board (about $110 for parts) solved his problem.  But there was no real info on diagnosing the problem.  Some questions:

1. How can I test the motor to see whether it is working OK, so that I can eliminate it as being the cause ?

2. How does one check to determine the controller board is the culprit ?  What if I spend all that money to replace the board and it still doesn't work ?

3. A new garage door opener costs about $200.  Would I be well advised to put in a new opener instead of spending $110 on a controller board ?  My only concern is whether I can use the same remote for both my garage door openers (the other one is the same as this one), instead of having two separate remotes (pain !).

Guidance on troubleshooting and fixing would be most appreciated !
Reply
#12
(09-18-2022, 05:18 PM)ShopStud Wrote: I have had a Liftmaster 1280R 1/2HP garage door opener installed and working since 1999 (Mfg date 07/99) and it seems to have suddenly given up the ghost.  It operates my double-garage door.  I bought the house in late 2011 from folks who had never lived in it.  So from 1999 to 2011, the house saw very little use and the wear and tear on everything within the house was absolutely minimal to nil.  The house was in brand new condition when I bought it.

At the time, when I pressed the button, the garage door opened, but when I pressed the button a few minutes later, to shut it, it did not react at all.  When I press the wired button or the button on the remote, I can hear a clicking sound at the opener, as if a relay is being energized, but nothing happens.  So I know the garage door opener is receiving the signal from both the remote and the wired button.  However, I can't pinpoint the source of the clicking sound.  I waited a while to see whether the overload protector had tripped, and then tried again, but that didn't help either.  It still would not operate the next day.  Here's the manual:
http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/cgi/p...f?u=gsn58x

I cleaned the sensors with some 20-yr old Pappy (ha, just kidding - it was isopropyl alcohol) and made sure that all the wires to them were clean and without breaks.  I also checked the spring tension and it is OK.  I can disengage the opener and raise and lower the door manually with very little effort.

I took out the motor capacitor and checked it with my multi-meter and it is spot on - the reading (57.5 micro-Farads) is exactly half way between the range.  The capacitor is in good shape and does not show any signs of bloating or leakage.  So I know that ain't the problem.  I've searched the web and all I could find was a guy on YouTube who said he had the same symptoms and changing the controller board (about $110 for parts) solved his problem.  But there was no real info on diagnosing the problem.  Some questions:

1. How can I test the motor to see whether it is working OK, so that I can eliminate it as being the cause ?

2. How does one check to determine the controller board is the culprit ?  What if I spend all that money to replace the board and it still doesn't work ?

3. A new garage door opener costs about $200.  Would I be well advised to put in a new opener instead of spending $110 on a controller board ?  My only concern is whether I can use the same remote for both my garage door openers (the other one is the same as this one), instead of having two separate remotes (pain !).

Guidance on troubleshooting and fixing would be most appreciated !

Look at the safety sensors to see if they are working, normally they have lights on them to verify operation. They allow opening but not lowering if something is in the way.
  Roly
Reply
#13
Release the door and close it. Try running the opener again.
VH07V  
Reply
#14
(09-18-2022, 06:21 PM)Roly Wrote: Look at the safety sensors to see if they are working, normally they have lights on them to verify operation. They allow opening but not lowering if something is in the way. 
  Roly

The sensors seem to be working.  I have green lights at both ends; however, if the beam is interrupted, the green light flickers at one end.
Reply
#15
(09-19-2022, 12:08 AM)EightFingers Wrote: Release the door and close it. Try running the opener again.

Yup - tried that and it did not work.
Reply
#16
(09-18-2022, 05:18 PM)ShopStud Wrote: ... A new garage door opener costs about $200.  Would I be well advised to put in a new opener instead of spending $110 on a controller board ?  My only concern is whether I can use the same remote for both my garage door openers (the other one is the same as this one), instead of having two separate remotes (pain !).

Guidance on troubleshooting and fixing would be most appreciated !

I suspect that 'quality' of a new unit might be lesser than one 20 years old... so it may be worth fixing.  

Amateur question... have you unplugged it for a few minuutes AFTER all the things you've done?
Reply
#17
1. Disconnect the supply wires from board. Ground the motor and feed it current from an appropriate supply source.  If it runs, it's not the motor.

2a. The test above will tell you that.
2b. You already know the answer to this - you're s.o.l.\

3a. In my opinion, yes.
3b. If you get one that operates on 390mHz you can use your current remote. 

That might be easier said than done.  There are also programmable remotes that I believe will work across all systems.
Reply
#18
(09-19-2022, 04:16 AM)KC Wrote: I suspect that 'quality' of a new unit might be lesser than one 20 years old... so it may be worth fixing.  

Amateur question... have you unplugged it for a few minutes AFTER all the things you've done?

Yes I did.  I switched off the power overnight, switched it on the next day and tried again. I did this several times.  No go
Sad
Reply
#19
(09-19-2022, 02:58 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: 1. Disconnect the supply wires from board. Ground the motor and feed it current from an appropriate supply source.  If it runs, it's not the motor.

2a. The test above will tell you that.
2b. You already know the answer to this - you're s.o.l.\

3a. In my opinion, yes.
3b. If you get one that operates on 390mHz you can use your current remote. 

That might be easier said than done.  There are also programmable remotes that I believe will work across all systems.

The connections to the motor are not easy to disconnect.  Unfortunately, there's no detailed connectivity schematic that I can refer to, to figure out what to disconnect and how to feed power to the motor without blowing everything up.  Figuring this out without a diagram, with limited access to the board (because of the manner in which it is mounted and the way the wires run in), while perched on a ladder, is not much fun
Sad

I wish I could get my hands on a wiring schematic !
Reply
#20
ShopStud
The connections to the motor are not easy to disconnect.  Unfortunately, there's no detailed connectivity schematic that I can refer to, to figure out what to disconnect and how to feed power to the motor without blowing everything up.  Figuring this out without a diagram, with limited access to the board (because of the manner in which it is mounted and the way the wires run in), while perched on a ladder, is not much fun
Sad

I wish I could get my hands on a wiring schematic !


First, take the unit down so you can work on it on a bench.  It’s not doing you much good up there if if it’s not functioning.  It’ll be a lot safer too 
Yes

I suspect the motor’s wires are not soldered to the controller - which means they can easily be disconnected to test.

https://www.garagedoorsupplyco.com/Liftm...c_287.html
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.