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(10-07-2022, 02:49 PM)OneStaple Wrote: Thanks for the recommendations. I have some G-flex, but thought it might be too thick. The long cure time could help with that though. I might play with it to see if it has potential. The second option seems more in line with a low-viscosity solution that could work well. Good to know that you've used it successfully before.
I would likely remove the excess epoxy before planing with some combo of a sander, chisel, or hand planes. I know epoxy turns well on the lathe, but I don't remember power planing it before.
Yes, I have a bandsaw, but I'd still lose some between the cutting and jointing. And it turns this project into a lot more work for something that isn't required to look awesome. If this were indoor furniture, I'd certainly take this approach. Plus, there's still the question of embedded metal.
Tyler
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FYI - The poured epoxy for river tables has a much longer open and time to cure than g-Flex. Think maple syrup thickness , 1/2” river took 2-3 days to cure.
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(10-06-2022, 08:30 PM)OneStaple Wrote: Good point. The thought of imbedded fasteners did cross my mind, which is another reason I'm not eager to cut it. I know a lot of bowling lanes are full of hidden nails. I don't have a metal detector, but probably should have one.
I think I need something less viscous than that. Keep in mind that most of the cracks are the thickness of 1-4 sheets of paper, so there's not much room to get a tool of persuasion in there. I know there are some low viscosity epoxies, but I'm not really familiar with what is decent.
Hmm, not a bad idea. I like the look of the butcher block more though (yes, that's totally opinion and not function based). And I don't anticipate using the table in a way that would require frequent redoing of the surface. I'll keep that option in mind though as I continue to think this through
Tyler
I was suggesting using a putty knife to force it down into the smallest parts of the cracks; 90 deg.s to the crack 'till it's packed. The clear 2 part epoxy will drain out the bottom near the ends where they're wider.
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think i'd tape the bottom cracks, then use a deep pour epoxy, which should be thinner with a longer set time.
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Have done that for a number of pieces I have built out of old wood, repaired antiques and others. Works extremely well IMO.
John
Always use the right tool for the job.
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10-13-2022, 09:15 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-13-2022, 09:20 AM by Alan S.)
If the cracks are narrow you don’t need a deep pour epoxy. The challenge with an ordinary runny epoxy (often called a boat building epoxy) is to keep it from dripping out before it sets. One approach is to use a thicker epoxy on the bottom and end, worked in with a pallet knife. When that sets, turn the slab over and pour thinner epoxy from the top. This, with tape on the bottom for insurance, makes dripping out less likely.
Or you can tape the bottom and end, then pour in a little epoxy without filling. A small leak won’t drip much this way, and will get sealed. When that begins to set, mix and pour a bit more. It’s a pain to mix a lot of batches, but a lot less painful than seeing the large batch all drip out onto the floor.
