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(10-29-2022, 11:15 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Years ago I bought a 10' length of 3/8" x 3/4" steel bar stock for less than $20. With today's prices it's probably more like $35. I've drilled thru the sled to mark holes to be drilled and tapped, and also used pointed set-screws in tapped holes to mark the bottom of other sleds. If the holes aren't perfect, I swap the flat head machine screw to a countersunk pan head. I've also added construction adhesive for a more permanent attachment. (What can I say? I'm a carpenter, it's what I had.) It will damage the sled when removed but I can scrape the wood and glue from the steel for the next use.
No apology necessary in my world. Pretty is nice on the things we make. It's far less important to me in the shop. What matters is functionality, and your approach seems like a very practical approach to that end. And I think your approach with the pan head screws from the top in oversized slots is how Woodpecker's or someone like that goes about alignment of sled runners on some their products.
John
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(10-30-2022, 09:17 AM)jteneyck Wrote: No apology necessary in my world. Pretty is nice on the things we make. It's far less important to me in the shop. What matters is functionality, and your approach seems like a very practical approach to that end. And I think your approach with the pan head screws from the top in oversized slots is how Woodpecker's or someone like that goes about alignment of sled runners on some their products.
John
Yea, I try to get them all perfect so 1/4-20 x 3/4" F.H. machine screws will keep them where they're supposed to be. The set-screws work like dowel centers so they're usually right on. Countersinking and slotting the holes can allow movement; hence the glue. Some woodworkers would never consider drilling and tapping, especially after they've broken a tap and made it worse trying to get it out. I just use the right size sharp bit, and drive the tap with my cordless drill on a low clutch setting. My most used "taps" are the surplus thread cutting machine screws from door closer hardware. I have no reservations running them right in with my DeWalt impact gun. Hint; Yes they are #3 phillips, and no, a #2 phillips won't work!
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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(10-26-2022, 11:53 PM)lift mechanic Wrote: I have used this sled for 15+ years. Runners are made of QSWO and have served me well. The sled has a little more movement than I would like. I bought some UHMW strips to replace the worn runners. My thought is to remove one runner at a time, using two sided tape to position the new runner onto the bottom of the sled. Then screw the new runner to the sled. Check for square and repeat. Is there another way to do this? The reference fence is screwed on only so I could reposition it if need be.
The UHMW strips are fine. I use 3/8" x 3/4" steel that I lap to fit. I use 10/32 flat head screws installed from the top . The sled is screwed to the runners, then the fence is installed with one screw at the left end from the bottom. The right end is moved til the fence is square with miter slots.
Then I turn the sled upside down and slide it into the slots . The sled is pushed up to the saw table and the fence is pushed to the tables edge.
This assures the fence is dead square to the table and the miter slots. The right end is then screwed from the bottom. Additional screws added depending on the width of the sled. If your saw table has the rail in the way, use the outfeed end to square the fence. Some fences have rails front and back. If you have another tool like a bandsaw that has similar slots, use it.
I made a MDF board with 90° & 45° dadoes for this purpose.
Reposition the fence is the way to go, other ways usually do not work most of the time . I have found that every machine tool that I have used with miter slots are milled dead on to square with the table.
mike
