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Drilling a Long (12") Hole
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12-09-2022, 10:08 PM
Has anyone every drilled a long (i.e. lengthwise) hole into the end of a ¾” th. shelf? I am trying to install a small LED at the front end of the shelf and would like to conceal the wires in the hole and run them to the back of the shelf to the power supply. Anyone attempted this? Tips?
12-09-2022, 11:15 PM
(12-09-2022, 10:08 PM)Don_M Wrote: Has anyone every drilled a long (i.e. lengthwise) hole into the end of a ¾” th. shelf? I am trying to install a small LED at the front end of the shelf and would like to conceal the wires in the hole and run them to the back of the shelf to the power supply. Anyone attempted this? Tips? how close to the front edge? glue up an option?
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12-09-2022, 11:36 PM
I don’t see a problem other than wire routing. Look for “aircraft drill bits”, they’re long, and either use a drill press or a guide. Then run a string through and use it to pull the wires.
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12-10-2022, 12:02 AM
It can be hard to find a drill press with a 12" throw. Precisely re-positioning the DP table for each incremental step of drilling can be challenging and the swarf may not clear the hole.
In concept, you could re-saw a thin piece of the end of the board, route a channel for the wires, trim as necessary for the light, install the light, and then glue the re-sawed piece back on. Sorta like the concept behind BS boxes.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas. 
1-go buy an 1/4 dia x 12" or 18" long ship auger
2-layout both holes 3-drill the led hole 4-put on edge in drill press, go as deep as you can with a 1/4" brad point drill to provide a guide 5-finish the hole with a drill motor & the ship auger, reverse often and pull the bit out to clear the chips 5A-hope the ship auger doesn't wander. Just remember, ship augers self feed. Do a test hole or 2 in a mock-up shelf Ed
12-10-2022, 03:52 AM
(12-10-2022, 12:02 AM)iclark Wrote: It can be hard to find a drill press with a 12" throw. Precisely re-positioning the DP table for each incremental step of drilling can be challenging and the swarf may not clear the hole. This is what I had in mind...
12-10-2022, 08:25 AM
A 1/4 drill bit will wander on you. My guess is you have a about a 50% chance of getting it drilled without breaking through the top or bottom and even if you make it the hole may be in the way of inserting the fixture.
What kind of finish is on the shelf? You could rout a channel for the led and laminate over the shelf with veneer or a formica type laminate. My local Menards has self adhesive paper backed wood laminates that would probably be be sturdy enough to span a 1/4 inch groove.
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12-10-2022, 08:58 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-10-2022, 08:58 AM by fredhargis.)
(12-10-2022, 08:25 AM)KyleD Wrote: A 1/4 drill bit will wander on you. My guess is you have a about a 50% chance of getting it drilled without breaking through the top or bottom and even if you make it the hole may be in the way of inserting the fixture. That's what I'm thinking. We have some puck lights installed in the the OP wants, and they apparently went the way of the groove and glue a cover piece on. This was done by the folks who built the house originally. I was just looking at it last week, I need to replace one of the pucks.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
12-10-2022, 10:19 AM
The bottom of most shelves is not usually very noticeable. I would go with the groove idea (maybe you don't need 1/4"??). Then fill over the wire with a matching wood strip of cover someway as suggested.
Another thought that might not be what you want. Would a battery powered LED light work for you needs?
12-10-2022, 10:39 AM
Thanks - all good responses/suggestions. MY DP has a 3" throw and it is only a bench-top! So thinking about it now it would be a very complex process to drill (Not enough room to fit both a 12" drill PLUS the 12" shelf under the bit - even with the bed lowered all the way). So it would require multiple length bits and steps. Doing it by hand after an initial pilot hole - maybe?!
Of course (or perhaps obviously!) plan "B" is to route a "2-step" dado in the bottom of the shelf and use a filler strip to close off. That seems to me to be the most reliable and least amount of effort overall. Thanks.
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