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(11-10-2022, 09:36 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: John, sorry, you are right, the GO513 x2. As to blade length, actually the blade length is not identical for each blade, I found that out the hard way when the first one I bought was slighly over 131 1/2 and the upper wheel hit a stop before it was tensioned, so I now I order 131 1/4. My understanding of how that gauge is set up is that a few fractions longer or shorter will impact where the pointer points, and so even if I order a 131 1/4 , one may be a 1/16 or an 1/8 over, and the next one may be a 1/16 or an 1/8 longer and so will read differently even with the same tension. As to numbers, I can't recall what the manual said, though I thought it said to use higher numbers for wider blades. Again, I like the saw, it is just the gauge seems to fall pretty short of helpful.
Rikon 10-325 has the same type of tension gauge setup. I figured once I got the desired blade tension via a better tension gauge and note the number on the saw's tension gauge, the installed tension gauge may be fairly repeatable. I did use a digital caliper and directions from a woodworking magazine. The caliper and a couple mini C clamps seemed to work as the article said.
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(12-09-2022, 12:12 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: john - methinks you need to revisit the Griz spec sheet because I don't see how the 513 could possibly tension a 1" band. That saw barely weighs over 250lbs, which means the steel frame is pretty lightweight - both figuratively and literally. Sure the "specs" say it'll accommodate a 1" blade but that's from the fellas over in marketing , not the engineering dept.
Your 636x on the other hand tips the scales at over 600lbs which means it does have a robust frame. It's a mistake to think all products from griz (or anyone else) are of the same build quality just because your example is. The fact the price is 3x more should be your leading indicator.
You could be right; manufacturers typically overstate the capabilities of their products. And that's why you use a tension gage. It will tell you what the saw is and is not capable of using. It's best to do that on the blade the manufacturer sent with the saw. Then you won't waste money on a wider blade if the saw isn't capable of tensioning it.
John
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David, I don't see any flutter in the blade. But the better way to look for flutter is to pull the guide bearings as far away from the blade as possible and raise them up to max height. Now you will see any little bit of flutter.
John
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(12-10-2022, 01:45 PM)jteneyck Wrote: You could be right; manufacturers typically overstate the capabilities of their products. And that's why you use a tension gage. It will tell you what the saw is and is not capable of using. It's best to do that on the blade the manufacturer sent with the saw. Then you won't waste money on a wider blade if the saw isn't capable of tensioning it.
John
Of course I’m right , and that’ll save people a bunch of time and money instead of wasting both with a 1” blade on that saw.
Good rule of thumb is - no bandsaw will properly tension the max width blade their sales literature says will fit on it.
Besides, it’s a bit of a fallacy that a wider blade is somehow the golden ticket to better resawing.
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(12-11-2022, 02:39 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: Of course I’m right , and that’ll save people a bunch of time and money instead of wasting both with a 1” blade on that saw.
Good rule of thumb is - no bandsaw will properly tension the max width blade their sales literature says will fit on it.
Besides, it’s a bit of a fallacy that a wider blade is somehow the golden ticket to better resawing.
Well, you may be or you may not be, and the only way to know is to put a tension meter on it.
John
