Wall mount dust collection
#30
(03-14-2023, 07:53 AM)Mike 55 Wrote: Mark,

I'm still waiting for that same unit with the HEPA filter to come off backorder. I too use one tool at a time. You did a great job on the install. It looks great. Where did you get those wall hose clamps? It also looks like you have a Dewalt 735 planer. Does it work well pulling the chips? I may have to steal your hose holder design too! 
Laugh

Do you have a tablesaw? Just wonder if it works well there too!

Thanks,

Mike
Hi Mike
Thanks for kind words on the install. The clamps to hold the hose to the wall I made from a 2x12, cut the hole with a fly cutter on the drill press, drilled holes in the t shape corners and then cut the t shape with the band saw.
It does a tremendous job pulling chips and such with the planner, jointer, table-saw, router table, and combo sander.
Yes, the holder for the hose on the planner works great, keeps the hose away from the out-feed table and is height adjustable also.

Thanks again, 
Mark
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#31
MT, nice lookin install.
I had one of those portable units for many years. Used it as an extra on machines that needed a little more uff.
Used as a floor sweeper at times. Used it once as a walnut sucker-upper. Yea, that was cool.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#32
(03-13-2023, 01:07 PM)MichaelS Wrote: It takes wayyy more power than just about any ever estimate to effectively capture fines at the tool. I am not a doom and gloom guy, but there is a lot of science & math required to design a ‘just enough’ dc system to ensure no health risks in a wood shop. I have sensitive lungs so I err on the side of overkill. Just depends on if you are designing a dc for chip collection, fines collection, or air purity (I cant afford the last one)

I have a supercell now and its nuts - BUT, it requires serious piping / flex tube as it pulls 90” of wc through 4” of pipe. It will collapse 18ga or thinner (showed my eldest as a parlor trick, got their attention
Smile)

Michael

Thanks for the reminder/thoughts on the 3 levels of collection. I hope to be setting up a new woodshop this summer. I have an older PSI cyclone (a model that their CS does not admit to it ever existing) and a bunch of metal tubing that I picked up on a gov surplus auction. I haven't decided what I am going to do about the final-stage (output) filter.

(03-13-2023, 03:42 PM)MT Woodworker Wrote: It gets down to what works for me, and it does.
My shop is not plumbed, as I said earlier.
One tool at a time, did you read that?

May not work for you, so do what you need.

Your setup looks good to me. I read Michael's post as a positive follow-up on what you have done.

Especially for the turners but also for those who do flat work with exotic woods, it can be a good reminder that dust collectors can do a good job on chips and sawdust, but not really collect fines or just blow them back out into the shop through their filters. Those fines from things like true rosewoods can be allergy triggering over time if they just get blown back into the shop. The health problems for the Two Lawyers saw makers are a reminder of how bad those allergies can get.

As you said, we all need to do what works for ourselves.

My best wishes for many years of enjoyable woodworking with your new setup.
Yes
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#33
(03-14-2023, 05:48 PM)iclark Wrote: Thanks for the reminder/thoughts on the 3 levels of collection. I hope to be setting up a new woodshop this summer. I have an older PSI cyclone (a model that their CS does not admit to it ever existing) and a bunch of metal tubing that I picked up on a gov surplus auction. I haven't decided what I am going to do about the final-stage (output) filter.


Your setup looks good to me. I read Michael's post as a positive follow-up on what you have done.

Especially for the turners but also for those who do flat work with exotic woods, it can be a good reminder that dust collectors can do a good job on chips and sawdust, but not really collect fines or just blow them back out into the shop through their filters. Those fines from things like true rosewoods can be allergy triggering over time if they just get blown back into the shop. The health problems for the Two Lawyers saw makers are a reminder of how bad those allergies can get.

As you said, we all need to do what works for ourselves.

My best wishes for many years of enjoyable woodworking with your new setup.
Yes

As a follow-on to your post, you can eliminate the risk of fine particles, and improve performance pretty substantially, by ducting the exhaust from your DC outside.  I live in NYS where the winters are cold.  I've had no problem doing this in my basement shop.  Might be a different story in a garage with no heat, but it works fine for me in my shop.  

John
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#34
(03-14-2023, 06:28 PM)jteneyck Wrote: As a follow-on to your post, you can eliminate the risk of fine particles, and improve performance pretty substantially, by ducting the exhaust from your DC outside.  I live in NYS where the winters are cold.  I've had no problem doing this in my basement shop.  Might be a different story in a garage with no heat, but it works fine for me in my shop.  

John

We just acquired a new-to-us house with a detached 1-1/2 "car" garage. The "car" was a 30' RV. The plan is to fix it up for my shop - starting with upgrading the wiring, adding insulation, and sheathing (TBD) the walls.

I don't know enough about the PSI vortex DC to know what happens if I just remove the final-stage exhaust filter (or if I need that back-pressure for the vortex/cyclone to operate efficiently). Adding an enclosure on the outside of the building for the DC is probably more than I could get away with (mandatory set-back from the property line), but I might be able to add a blister (raised off the ground) to house that final/exhaust filter.

I guess I need to dig out that DC from where it is currently stored and see if anyone here has experience with that model.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#35
(03-16-2023, 05:15 PM)iclark Wrote: We just acquired a new-to-us house with a detached 1-1/2 "car" garage. The "car" was a 30' RV. The plan is to fix it up for my shop - starting with upgrading the wiring, adding insulation, and sheathing (TBD) the walls.

I don't know enough about the PSI vortex DC to know what happens if I just remove the final-stage exhaust filter (or if I need that back-pressure for the vortex/cyclone to operate efficiently). Adding an enclosure on the outside of the building for the DC is probably more than I could get away with (mandatory set-back from the property line), but I might be able to add a blister (raised off the ground) to house that final/exhaust filter.

I guess I need to dig out that DC from where it is currently stored and see if anyone here has experience with that model.

Cyclones do have a maximum airflow, beyond which particles will be pulled into the vortex finder instead of spun out.  I doubt that's an issue though if you remove the filter.  The fan curve should tell you all you need to know.  Whatever the max CFM is should be a safe limit.  Let's say it's 1500 cfm with the largest test orifice used to generate the data, let's say an 8" one.  OK, the manufacturer is saying their system meets whatever standard of filtration up to that value.  The static pressure will be listed, too.  If you remove the filter and duct it outside, just use whatever diameter pipe or hose on the final section that gives you the same static pressure on an open 8" pipe the same distance upstream as used to produce the fan curve.  

John
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#36
(03-17-2023, 09:51 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Cyclones do have a maximum airflow, beyond which particles will be pulled into the vortex finder instead of spun out.  I doubt that's an issue though if you remove the filter.  The fan curve should tell you all you need to know.  Whatever the max CFM is should be a safe limit.  Let's say it's 1500 cfm with the largest test orifice used to generate the data, let's say an 8" one.  OK, the manufacturer is saying their system meets whatever standard of filtration up to that value.  The static pressure will be listed, too.  If you remove the filter and duct it outside, just use whatever diameter pipe or hose on the final section that gives you the same static pressure on an open 8" pipe the same distance upstream as used to produce the fan curve.  

John

Good recommendations and approach. I don't remember if anything beyond HP and voltage are on the label(s).
It would certainly be easier if PSI admitted that the model ever existed and had a manual.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#37
Sorry, no time to read through comments to see if this has been mentioned already, but a fixed, centralized dc might really be the best way to go in a small workshop. In my former, small workshop moving around a shopvac was a real PITA and the same would be true of a portable DC - imho. Fixed position and centralized to what works in your floor plan is the way to go.
I'll share this video of mine at the risk of self-promotion for your consideration of what might work for your workshop. Hope it helps you or someone else in a similar small-shop situation.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjvy_At8bIs
Ray
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#38
(01-16-2023, 03:07 PM)MT Woodworker Wrote: Hi
Looking into a wall mounted dust collection, 120 volt for now, 240 maybe later.

Small shop, one tool at a time.

Oneida, Rockler, Grizzly, ?

Thoughts?

Thanks 
Mark

Hello , I am using the Rockler wall mount in my small shop , I am also using the Oneida Dust Deputy on shop vac when sanding with random orbital sander . My shop is 14 X 22 . Only use the Rockler vac when planing rough stock though . Gary
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