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04-07-2023, 12:09 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-07-2023, 12:09 AM by Handplanesandmore.)
If yours is a sawstop, please be reminded not to use a blade that has a hump, or the antikickback feature, that sawstop advises against. It would negatively affect the finger saving effectiveness.
Simon
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(04-02-2023, 02:42 PM)Steve Soldo Wrote: Just got a new table saw. Blade that came with it is mediocre.
Is there a general recommendation for a good tablesaw blade?
I was looking through the Taylor Toolworks website and they have good prices on the CMT blades.
Also how about a dado set?
Previously I had a Woodworker II and a Freud Dado set. This was destroyed in a fire, so I got a new Sawstop.
It's hard to beat the Freud Premier Fusion based on performance and price. It's the blade that is on my SawStop 99% of the time.
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04-13-2023, 11:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-13-2023, 11:02 PM by mdhills.)
I've liked the Freud Fusion and WWII (30t) blades and used thin-kerf versions of both with my hybrid tablesaw.
I've heard Leitz is good and am thinking of trying these next:
https://vsctools.com/shop/product-catego...z-tooling/
Who makes a rip blade without the knuckle mentioned above?
Matt
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04-14-2023, 11:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-14-2023, 11:17 AM by fredhargis.)
I don't worry about those anti kickback knobs (yes, I have a SS). I'm sure they slow down the brake somewhat, but I'd bet is someone timed it it wouldn't be enough to make a difference in functionality. I'd also bet the SS warning about them is largely a CYA written by their legal dept. But that's only my opinion. That said, I suspect that kickback is a bigger problem than most folks suspect.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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04-16-2023, 07:51 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-16-2023, 07:53 AM by Cabinet Monkey.)
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And of course sawstop itself----reg and premium blades.
Simon
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I'm partial to the CMT blades, but I prefer blades that have a 1/8" thickness. On my saw, the riving knife is a little thick, so thin kerf blades don't always work. TS isn't SS though.
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I own lots of different saw blades.
I’m partial to Stehle:
https://www.stehle-int.com/EN/US/web/home/
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
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(04-14-2023, 11:16 AM)fredhargis Wrote: I don't worry about those anti kickback knobs (yes, I have a SS). I'm sure they slow down the brake somewhat, but I'd bet is someone timed it it wouldn't be enough to make a difference in functionality. I'd also bet the SS warning about them is largely a CYA written by their legal dept. But that's only my opinion. That said, I suspect that kickback is a bigger problem than most folks suspect.
You know, I’ve always had this in the back of my mind. I’ve hung on to my Dadonator but I see Infinity now has a new “SS compliant” version with perforated wings and no shoulders.
I also quit gauging the brake every time I change blades. I figure this is micro seconds thing. Several of my blades have quite different diameters.
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04-23-2023, 12:20 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-23-2023, 12:22 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
After spending such money on the saw, I don't second guess the sawstop's advice. If I did, I might as well get back to my old saw which is now an assembly table.
How hard or expensive is it to follow the ss blade recommendations? No thin kerf blades, no hump blades, and no 10" dado stacks. That's pretty much. I even know someone who once used a standard cartridge to make a dado cut. His fingers, his call.
Simon