Fitting Drawers
#11
Still working on the small bed side table for my wife.  I'm ready to make the drawers and fit them.  What is your normal procedure - glue the carcass and then fit the drawers -or- just clamp the carcass temporarily while you fit the drawers and then glue it all up?  I want to have smooth working well fit drawers.  If it was shop cabinets I wouldn't be so picky.

Lonnie

   
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#12
I almost always have the carcass glued together (usually without the back) when I fit the drawers. No idea if that's the right way, just the way I've always done it.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
(11-18-2023, 06:17 AM)fredhargis Wrote: I almost always have the carcass glued together (usually without the back) when I fit the drawers. No idea if that's the right way, just the way I've always done it.

+1
Gary
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#14
I'm in with Fred and Gary.

In my view, you want that carcass to be a "known quantity" when you start fitting the drawers.  There's always the chance that final dimensions of the drawer opening will shift every so slightly during glue up.  The drawer opening might look fine, but if the drawer has already been fitted before glue up, then it could have to be adjusted to account for shifted dimensions.  Given that most inlay drawer fronts have long thin lines for gaps, any variation in those gaps around the drawer face are going to be evident.  Additionally, fitting the drawer box to the case and drawer runners/glides/slides is a more certain process if the carcase is solid at the time of fitting the drawer box.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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#15
I agree with the others. Glue up the cabinet first, then fit the drawers.  If you are using 5 piece, inset drawers, not ones with applied false fronts, then fit the front to the opening first, before building the rest of the drawer.  I read that in a FWW article several years ago, so I tried it.  I couldn't believe how much easier it was to build the drawers after knowing the front would need no adjustment.  

I like the table.  The veneer work looks good.  Are you planning to run a rabbett around the outer edge of the top and inset a strip of contrasting veneer?  

John
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#16
Never built anything fancy, but I put together the cabinet/carcass first and then do the drawers.
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#17
(11-18-2023, 11:08 AM)branchacctg Wrote: Never built anything fancy, but I put together the cabinet/carcass first and then do the drawers.

Its easier to re-make a drawer than it is to re-make the carcass.

I only knew of one cabinetmaker that would make his drawers first.  This was in a lumberyard millwork shop.  He was smart and he was good but he later moved on to bigger and better things in his life.
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#18
Thanks for all of the replies.  I'm going to finish all the parts before assembly so it may be awhile before drawers get started.  To answer John's question - yes there will be a small bead around the edge about 1/4" x 1/8".  (It looks bigger than that because I haven't trimmed it yet.) The bead will be wenge to match the center banding.  Here are a few photos:

   

   

   
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#19
(11-18-2023, 07:29 PM)Mr Eddie Wrote: Thanks for all of the replies.  I'm going to finish all the parts before assembly so it may be awhile before drawers get started.  To answer John's question - yes there will be a small bead around the edge about 1/4" x 1/8".  (It looks bigger than that because I haven't trimmed it yet.)  The bead will be wenge to match the center banding.  Here are a few photos:

Nice work.  It's going to be stunning.  

John
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#20
(11-19-2023, 10:34 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Nice work.  It's going to be stunning.  

John

Thanks John
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