Presenting: The RAS Miter Table

[jteneyck]

Put me down for one if/when you decide to do that.  Like Fred Hargis, my greatest use would be in segmenting for turnings.  

When i read your initial comment on the pivot edge stay constant i was stumped since it's away from the pivot point.  Hadn't thought through it yet, but recognized the challenge!!

OK, I'll let you know.  It shouldn't be too hard to put a package together at a reasonable price.  I didn't show these pictures yesterday, to keep it brief, but here's what I'm talking about with keeping the edge of the fence in the same spot as it rotates.  

The fence at 0 deg:



Some intermediate angle:



And at 45 deg:



Pivoting with the edge not moving assures the angle scale works correctly and also supports the back edge of the board like a ZCI does.  

As I took these photos, and looked at the bottom of the boards I cut, I realized the ring dado needed to be filled in along the cut line to prevent tearout.  I added a piece to do that, but will redesign it if the kit comes to fruition.  



OK, to cut segmented rings you'll definitely want a length stop system, correct?  Do you all have any thoughts on what system would work best?  I have a home-built unit on my other RAS, but there are commercial units, too.  I appreciate any input.  Of course, you always could add your own afterwards, but I might be able to do something to make it easier.  

John

[stav]

Very cool setup. Makes me wish I had a RAS.

[Bill Wilson]

Very cool setup. Makes me wish I had a RAS.

With innovations like this, John might singlehandedly bring the RAS back into popular use.

[fredhargis]

OK, to cut segmented rings you'll definitely want a length stop system, correct?  Do you all have any thoughts on what system would work best?  I have a home-built unit on my other RAS, but there are commercial units, too.  I appreciate any input.  Of course, you always could add your own afterwards, but I might be able to do something to make it easier.  

John

That might be tough to figure out. To cut segments with a stop on that board, the long end of the workpiece might have to project out the back of the saw. There may be a way to do it, but none that's obvious to me.

[jteneyck]

That might be tough to figure out. To cut segments with a stop on that board, the long end of the workpiece might have to project out the back of the saw. There may be a way to do it, but none that's obvious to me.

Fred, I addressed that in the second photo.  Take another look.  It won't work at angles where the overhanging board will hit the fence calibration stops, but that could be redesigned, if necessary.  If you precut the pieces to rough length, however, it should work as is.  

John

[fredhargis]

The thing is that if you're cutting segments you usually cut one, flip the board and cut the another, and so on...the save wood. I'm not saying the angle guide won't work, I'm just not sure how you would do a stop (other than the rough method you suggested).

[jteneyck]

The thing is that if you're cutting segments you usually cut one, flip the board and cut the another, and so on...the save wood. I'm not saying the angle guide won't work, I'm just not sure how you would do a stop (other than the rough method you suggested).

Got it.  I need to give that some thought.  Thanks.

John

[greenacres2]

Yeah, Fred's comments are spot on. As i thought about John's question last night, i remembered how samll the segmented pieces are as well (for a 10" diameter ring with 18 segments, the long side will be about 1 3/4", that's kind of tight to the blade. 4" diameter is only a out 3/4" on the long leg. So...i'm a little "on the fence" on using it for segmenting--but very much want to do one to open up my flat work (frames & boxes).

[museumguy]

With innovations like this, John might singlehandedly bring the RAS back into popular use.

I've had a NOS Ridgid saw for a number of years, waiting to be setup. With all of talk lately about RAS, I may just push myself to finish it.

Thanks fellas, 

[jteneyck]

I thought about it some, and then had to draw it to see how it works if you flip the piece vs. precutting them.  



On the left side is how a board will be cut if you flip it for each cut.  This approach would best be done using a conventional setup on a RAS or chopsaw.  It saves wood, however, the grain will not run continuously around the assembled frame no matter how you orient the pieces.  And, clearly, it would be a non-starter for any type of molding.  

On the right side is how you would cut it so that the grain runs continuously around the frame.  It requires a longer piece of stock, no way around that no matter how you do it.  This method can again be done on the RAS, or on the chopsaw, or on a TS. 

To do it on a RAS without the miter table, you would set the saw arm to 45 degrees (or whatever angle you need).  You would first cut the parts to rough length, but very close to final length if you want the grain to run as continuously as possible. Then you would have to use a broken fence so that the angle on one side is cut with the piece 90 deg to the stock fence.  The other angle is cut by removing the broken fence and placing the piece against the stock fence.  Here's a link to Brian Weekley's broken fence.

Using the RAS with the miter table, it can be done with both fences installed. You would first cut the parts a little long, by the width of the blade, actually.  Then you set a stop on both fences, to the final length of your parts.  Cut one side, cut the other, and you're done.  

For cutting really short parts for bowl making, etc, I think it's going to require some specialized holding no matter how you do it.  I don't see the RAS miter table being the best option without a clever clamping system.  

John