What material to use for radial arm table

[Randy C]

I need to replace the table on my Dads radial arm saw. Was originally made out of particle board. Should I use particle board, MDF or plywood. 

Thanks

[jteneyck]

I need to replace the table on my Dads radial arm saw. Was originally made out of particle board. Should I use particle board, MDF or plywood. 

Thanks

I've used both MDF and plywood.  Both are good IMO.  Particle board would be fine, too, though it can sag if not well supported.  The most stable top is made from two layers of 3/4" material with 1/8 - 1/4" x 3/4 - 1" metal bars dadoed into them, glued together.  That's the Mr. Sawdust design.  I've seen 3 layers with no bars used, too.  

John

[greenacres2]

I'm with John, Mr. Sawdust design. i added a sheet of luan (pin-nailed) on top of my dual-layer MDF. and 8 years later it's still dead-flat. Saw kerf is no more than 1/16" deep, that helps too.
earl

[Kudzu]

I was going to say put a sacrificial top over you table too.

Luan works, I have tempered hardboard on mine because that is what I had laying around.

As for the tip I prefer plywood but there is nothing wrong with MDF.  Whatever you have or it cheapest.

[fredhargis]

I've made 3 of the Mr. Sawdust tables for different RAS I've had, and they are my de-facto standard now. I always used MDF for mine though I suppose plywood would work just as well. Should you decide on the Mr' Sawdust ype several of us here can talk you through it.

[Randy C]

Thanks everyone, I’ll check out Mr Sawdust

[tablesawtom]

I screwed hardwood slats to the frame work of the saws base. Then I put on a Dato stack and cut the top of the boards by pivoting the arm. That way all the  slats are parallel with the bottom of the saw blade. Then you can use anything for a top, because it is well supported. Personally I like UV finished plywood, But I am set up for only 90 degree cuts. I used screws for a Kreg jig so make sure the screws are more than deep enough.

Tom

[jteneyck]

I screwed hardwood slats to the frame work of the saws base. Then I put on a Dato stack and cut the top of the boards by pivoting the arm. That way all the  slats are parallel with the bottom of the saw blade. Then you can use anything for a top, because it is well supported. Personally I like UV finished plywood, But I am set up for only 90 degree cuts. I used screws for a Kreg jig so make sure the screws are more than deep enough.

Tom

That's genius, Tom.  I wouldn't use solid lumber, but the concept is brilliant as long as the table size is such that the dado stack can reach everything.  The front of the table would have to be radiused to the same arc as the arm I would think, but there's no need for it to be any bigger.  I bet that made a huge mess of sawdust when you did that.  

I spent hours fiddling with the elevation of the table on that big GA and it's still not perfect.  I'm going to consider your approach if I need to revisit it.  Thanks.  

John