Mistake correction / Design dilemma *revised attachment*

[test123]

UPDATE: I changed course on this.  Please see new thread “finger pull dimensions”.

Thx


I added a more legible attachment/diagram.

I’ve resurrected a long dormant project and realize i made a calculation error  that now requires a creative solution. I have an idea but want to get the forum opinion on whether the aesthetics  check out.

The project consists of (4) oak plywood boxes  that will be fastened together to creat a built-in credenza that sits on the floor below an existing built-in book shelf system. The credenza will consist of (2) bookshelf boxes and (2) drawer boxes with inset drawers …. which is where the mistake occurred.

 Originally the drawer fronts were going to be oak ply with 3/4” square edging to finish the ply edges. Midstream,  I decided to simplify the front building and I purchased and cut solid oak boards.

 The inside height of the box’s are 23.5”. 

Box #2 is loaded  with (2) file drawers requiring (3) reveal / gaps between drawers and the carcass.. The drawer front board is 11.25” x 2 drawers = 22.5 leaving 1”  divided by 3 reveals = a bit more that 5/16” per reveal.

Box #3 is loaded with (1) file drawer and (2) smaller drawers. The file drawer front is 11.25 x 1, small drawer front is 5.5” x 2 = 22.25, leaving 1.25” divided by 4 reveals = .3125 = 5/16

i was originally planning on 1/8” reveals .

I see 2 solutions (see crude, not to scale diagram attached):

A. Simply Make up for the short fall by adding a strip of oak board to the top of each drawer front that  would be uniform thickness for all file drawers. At minimum it would be about  5/16 but could be more if aesthetic call for it (and I would rip the existing front slab to accommodate).


B. Integrate an oak drawer pull across the entire width of each drawer that sits proud of the top of the front (and makes up the shortfall).   See cross sections diagram. This would replace the original plan for shop-made oak pulls that would have been roughly 1/3 the width iof the drawer, centered and located in the typical vertical position.

Appreciate any thoughts about A or B or perhaps something else.

Thanks for looking.

[barryvabeach]

First,  I make mistakes on every project, usually quite a few on each, so this is not an uncommon situation for me.   I am not a fan of option A, which is adding a strip of oak.  It is a small strip of the same material, and while it may mostly blend in, it would be hard to get it to blend in exactly. If you were to glue a strip,  I would think about cutting the drawer faces a little narrower and use a wider strip of a contrasting wood.  Alternatively, I would cut the drawer faces so that the strip that you are going to add is the same height as a bead, then glue on the strip and then cut a bead profile -  so that the deepest part of the bead is at the joint where the strip is.   Opiton B is fine, adding a pull will look like a design choice.  I am fine with your sketch, but feel free to cut the drawer fronts if you want the attachment to the top to be more than 5/16.

[MstrCarpenter]

I like the idea of adding a bead to the drawer fronts. If you cut the fronts down a little, you could add the bead to all 4 edges with mitered corners. Making it a touch proud of the face will allow you to be a little off if/when the front isn't exactly flush with the cabinet all the way around. Now you'll have to decide if the bead detail should go on the other two boxes.

From another prospective, perhaps the drawer fronts are not too small; the opening is too tall. Can you increase the width of the top or bottom rail?

[test123]

First,  I make mistakes on every project, usually quite a few on each, so this is not an uncommon situation for me.   I am not a fan of option A, which is adding a strip of oak.  It is a small strip of the same material, and while it may mostly blend in, it would be hard to get it to blend in exactly. If you were to glue a strip,  I would think about cutting the drawer faces a little narrower and use a wider strip of a contrasting wood.  Alternatively, I would cut the drawer faces so that the strip that you are going to add is the same height as a bead, then glue on the strip and then cut a bead profile -  so that the deepest part of the bead is at the joint where the strip is.   Opiton B is fine, adding a pull will look like a design choice.  I am fine with your sketch, but feel free to cut the drawer fronts if you want the attachment to the top to be more than 5/16.

Thank you—appreciate the encouragement. I have changed the focus of the drawer pull. See my update in new thread “finger pull dimensions”

[test123]

I like the idea of adding a bead to the drawer fronts. If you cut the fronts down a little, you could add the bead to all 4 edges with mitered corners. Making it a touch proud of the face will allow you to be a little off if/when the front isn't exactly flush with the cabinet all the way around. Now you'll have to decide if the bead detail should go on the other two boxes.

From another prospective, perhaps the drawer fronts are not too small; the opening is too tall. Can you increase the width of the top or bottom rail?

Thx for the thoughtful reply. The opening needs to stay where it is to match the adjacent boxes and the related bookshelves above the credenza.

I settled on a different approach to the pulls-see new thread “finger pull dimensions”.