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Running some 3/4" PEX for a new installation. All of the shut off valves (that you stub out to and connect to your sink / toilet) that I am finding are all 1/2".
Seeing as how common the 3/4" tube size is, are there no 3/4" barb valves? I find it silly to have to swedge down to 1/2" tube for the last foot. Wondering what other PEX users have done.
Shame on the men who can court exemption from present trouble and expense at the price of their own posterity's liberty! - Samuel Adams
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WoodNET... the new safespace
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I think he is looking for a 3/4" stop valve. I have never seen them.
I have always used a 3/4 Pex to 1/2 FIP elbow like this
Use a chrome nipple through the wall and a stop valve. It never occurred to me to look for a 3/4 stop valve.
Twinn
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Same here never though of doing everything in 3/4 and needing 3/4 stop valves. A little overkill for residential. I see most guys plumbing the hot side with 3/8 now for faucets. Gets the hot water there quicker by wasting less water.
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Very few fixtures have flow rates higher than a 1/2" branch line or home run can deliver. Why run 3/4?
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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I'd run 1" to a soaker tub if I could, but otherwise, I see no need for 3/4 unless not doing home runs.
I doubt I could get a faucet to flow enough for 1" or even 3/4".
You can get a 3/4" copper stub and then reduce to 1/2" in copper prior to the valve. It might be the path of least resistance.
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It sounds like the 3/4 pex - 1/2 FIP drop ear is the way to go.
I'm plumbing the new shop and it sits far off from the water main. 1/2" line would probably work, but I won't be connecting water for a year or two. I'm trying to get in everything I need to cover the walls now. By the time I'd find a flow problem, it would be way too late to change anything. Spending and additional $60 now is a cheap insurance compared to dealing with problems later.
Shame on the men who can court exemption from present trouble and expense at the price of their own posterity's liberty! - Samuel Adams
