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Location: Southern California
The issue of rust depends on the dew points where you store your tools. When the ambient temp and the dew point coincide you get dew, usually on metal tools 1st because they tend to be cooler. So your options are:
1) - keep the tools heated well above the dew point.
2) -
CorrosionX HD I've used this stuff for years now. Nothing I've protected with it has yet rusted.
3) - Mobil 1 or other truly synthetic motor oil - advocated by Jack Edgar (Timberwolf). When I run out of CorrosionX, I'll try this next.
4) - Mutton tallow - advocated by Admiral, Timberwolf and others.
These options are not mutually exclusive.
Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
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Location: Perth, Australia
I use this ..
Regards from Perth
Derek
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I keep stuff oiled with a mix of linseed oil and walnut oil (to thin it out a bit). Works well. I have recently tried mutton tallow on my wooden planes (have long been a dedicated paraffin wax user) and was impressed with the results. I may convert to that but will have to change my work style a bit since I rely on the wax to test depth / squareness of cut of my planes while waxing (a two-fer so to speak).
Zachary Dillinger
https://www.amazon.com/author/zdillinger
Author of "On Woodworking: Notes from a Lifetime at the Bench" and "With Saw, Plane and Chisel: Making Historic American Furniture With Hand Tools",
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Location: Burlington, North Carolina
The absolute best that I have used (and I have a very damp basement shop that I sometimes don't get to for a few months) is T9 Boeshield.
For cleaning up after I'm done working I use WD 40 but for long term protection I use T9 Boeshield.
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Location: Sparkling Clearwater, Fl. Tampa Bay Area
Quote:
Before Jack can say it, mutton tallow.
...yep..but there are many others also...Slipit is excellent and RIG has a long track record of protecting some extremely expensive firearms over long periods of time, and it's what I use on my weapons...It's a petroleum based product.....a very light coating is all that is needed...I have a piece of sheepskin that is charged with it and the last thing I do before putting them away is make sure I wipe them down with it. I would NEVER trust wax to protect them over long periods...Wax is not waterproof.
BTW..I have a container of Mutton Tallow from LV and it has a nice, lightly perfumed odor to it.
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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Location: W. of Rainier, E. of Orcas
I live in the Pacific NW where for 8 months the humidity bangs on 100-percent. And, no, I have no idea how on a clear sunny day the gauge can register that! My first winter with a Veritas plane was a total shock. The grey metal (polished, of course) grew Ronald McDonald red in less than a month. Millers-Falls in the wrong area!
I researched and read the FW article, too. But having just been stung by another stupid article, about weather-proof finishes, I scrooged the 12 or so solutions that still grew red metal anyway. And looked for the perfect one.
My hunt turned up Lanolin. Wool Fat. A commercial spray can, for those who must be modern, can be found at my local O'Reilly's with all the other protectants for about $10. Fluid Film is in a grey and red can.
Fluid Film (lanolin) works well. Very well. So well that I squirt and swipe all my tools with it and have them lying around loose in the garage. Occasionally, they may park themselves outside under an eave, on a ledge, and a few days later look no more ruddy than the ones still in the Lee Valley sleeves. My LN bronze even like it.
That's my short story, and not fictional.
