This format (Woodnet's new format) has cast me in the role of a Grunter. It's an ordeal to do basic stuff. I'm going to try another photo. Sorry about the lack of meaningful content to go along with things, this posting business has me at wits end! With luck, I can post a photo of me packet sawing the motif you see above. I use 1/8" MDF to form the bread in the "sandwiches" that I use as packets. This photo should have a coin in it for scale. The design is 17th Century, by Jacques Stella. I made the cartoon with tracing paper. I was feeling lazy, and just wanted to get something going, so I didn't draw it myself. I did edit it though, but I think I need to work on that a bit more.
This is Boulle method. Saw at 90* angle. Packet contains background and motif veneers. In this case, two (dyed) black backgrounds, one leaf in quilted maple, one leaf in cherry.
The Grunter: http://www.flamewarriorsguide.com/warrio...runter.htm
Paul,
I always enjoy your posts! Marquetry is something my wife and I would like to try. A couple of very basic questions for you - What size and brand of blade do you use? And how fast do you operate the blade? (I have an Excalibur scroll saw and the adjustment allows the speed to be set very low.) Do you find a magnifying light to be helpful?
I encourage you to try marquetry. It's easier than you think, but there are pitfalls. I can help (and I hope to help) you avoid them.
First, I'm using 2/0 blades. (Two aught) I don't have a manufacturer preference. Use whatever you like. I'm using 28 TPI, and you probably should too. Your Excalibur Saw will be an excellent performer. I bought one too, but I haven't used mine yet. I've got the 30" model. I've been using a Japanese parallel arm scroll saw, a Sakura. It works great. I have it set in the midrange of speed. It's pretty fast. I'd advise speeds that are pretty fast. Don't run it slow, like you can count the teeth while they move past. Run it medium speed or more. Get your feet wet, and decide whether you want to keep going like that, or change. The midrange speed takes advantage of that same phenomenon that enables a magician to briskly pull a tablecloth without moving the dishes atop it. The packet that you're sawing stays put. The saw moves up and down through the packet, but imparts no lifting force.
I don't use a lighted magnifying glass. I've got one, but I don't use it. With regard to questions of my eyesight, there is only one answer: I want to be twenty four years old again! Can you help me out with that one? I don't see why using one of those would be a problem. If it works, go for it.
This is where it gets interesting (I hope)...
I'm going to tell you two things you'll need.
TRAYS. You need trays. Do not begin without having trays. I'm going to show some of mine. They might look whoop de do, but they're nothing special. I made mine out of wood frames with recycled cardboard I scrounged for bottom panels. I lined mine with fabric. Mine are approx. 16" X 20" X 1 1/2". You can use upside down Milton Bradley game boxes for all I care, but you must have trays. A woodworker never has too many clamps, blah blah blah... Same thing for marquetry and trays! I made a cool tray organizing cabinet, so yay me! You don't need that, just a good way to use them and help them protect the contents.
Next thing you need, you must have, is a chosen method. I recommend Boulle method to begin.
That's the subject of my next contributing post.
Behold, trays:
Boulle means at least three things (heck, four)
1- Andre Charles Boulle. A person. He was a real guy, and he was a big deal. I think he terrific. You may, or maybe you don't, but anyway, he looked like this: http://static.tumblr.com/8668296562701e9...boulle.gif
2- "Boulle Marquetry" is an intricate style of woodwork that incorporates Ebony, tortoiseshell, brass, horn, and etc. it looks like this: http://orig13.deviantart.net/3c1e/f/2008...decojo.jpg
3- Ecole Boulle is a university of sorts in Paris to train skilled artisans. I almost forgot this one, that's why my list now has four.
4- Boulle Method (This is why we're here) Boulle method is when you stack leaves of veneer into a packet, and cut a hole in it. The thing resembles a sandwich, and the leaves of veneer are all the size of the whole sandwich. Observe the following, where bread is 1/8" MDF, Mahogany is ham, and Maple is cheese. I'll probably have to have multiple posts because of all the pictures.
Now you can make a cheese picture on a ham background (premiere partie), and a ham picture on a cheese background (contre partie).
That is a way oversimplified explanation of Boulle method.
A mix of sawdust and animal hide glue is mixed into a slurry and spread onto the back of the marquetry. In this example, I'm using Ipe wood.
In the second picture, if you look carefully, you can see that the show face is covered with gummed paper tape. That's how it always is. The show face is covered with bandages, but the glue face is altogether naked. Animal hide glue sticks to itself nicely. When the slurry is stable and dry, it can be cleaned up with sandpaper, but any residue should present no problem if you work carefully. The paper tape or craft paper, or whatever paper you're using will have to be removed from the show face after pressing. That's where water and a Scotch-Brite pad are used. Sandpaper is also used. Until the paper is removed there is a little uncertainty.
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