on purpose. I wanted to make a vase for cut flowers but it had to be wood. Since I'm not even good enough to finish the outside of a piece of wood to be really watertight (don't even think about getting the inside watertight), I had to do something different.
I made the bottom open so I could put a 1-3/4" diameter by 7-1/2" tall glass vase inside. the top was just small enough to hide the lip of the vase so if you try to peek inside, all you see is the smooth glass vase and it seems to have a great finish. Sneaky, huh?
No pics, didn't happen, so I attached one.
I used my new Wedgie sled to cut up a plain old pine 1x4, then dyed it with Rit dye after turning. The finish is Eddie Castelin's Shine Juice (equal parts BLO, clear shellac, and DNA).
For a first effort, I like it.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
Just wondering on the waterproofing is it possible to take epoxy and put enough in the vase and roll it around so it covers all the areas and then let it dry?
Or finish it in stages and put the epoxy in the inside at each stage?
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
I like it. There are glass inserts for vases. Personally, I wouldn't trust a watertight wood finish for a vase. I've seen some at craft shows, and they were done with epoxy, but I don't think its a permanent, no-maintenance solution.
There are some so devious that they make light, thin, closed forms with 3/8 holes up top, and cleverly concealed taper plugs cut from, then reinserted in, the bottom. No me, of course, but some folks.
I use inserts. As a note, if the wood isn't fully cured, it will contract and grab the insert. Make the hole a bit size larger so you can remove and fill the insert.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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