60 degree cut on table saw
#11
I am making a box which need couple of 60 degree cuts.
Currently I am trying to figure out to make a cut, either my brain is not working or not smart.
Looks  like I have to make a jig to make this cut safely.

I would like to use table saw to make the cut.

Any ideas , suggestions?
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#12
Stand the stock up vertically and the bevel to 30* and cut. 

Backer block may be required depending on the length of the cut

 

[img=20x400]here is an example of the setup [/img][Image: bevel%20cut_zpsas7v6fg4.jpg]
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
JGrout;

If I understand that Bevel the saw blade to 30 degree, which will on left 
Then hold the stock perpendicular to Table saw top which I can slide along the Fence.
This will give me 60 degree angle, is that correct?
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#14
yes  that is correct 

I also think before you make this cut you should clamp a length of wood to ride the top of the fence with the cut board sitting on the saw table. 

If you do not do this the cut and your fingers could be in danger if the part tries to pull down into the saw plate opening it is much safer with the carrier to hold it in place  

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#15
(03-26-2017, 06:38 PM)JGrout Wrote: I also think before you make this cut you should clamp a length of wood to ride the top of the fence with the cut board sitting on the saw table. 

Very smart practice. I like using a tall box to do this, also gives me a handhold away from the blade. Depending on right or left tilt I will put the fence on the side which leaves the blade projecting out to the side of the cut, rather than into my box. That leaves your box intact and you can use it for years. Cutting precise triangles to use as support blocks for the corners make the box easier to make.


Upright cuts—for lap joints, tenons miters, or rabbets—aren’t a good job for a table saw. That is, unless you build a simple box to guide and support the workpiece. Precise cuts depend on a precise box, so take the time to build it square and sturdy. And as always, make your adjustments and mistakes using scraps before cutting precious wood.

[Image: FH14MAR_TABLSW_12.JPG]
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#16
I made this when making a flag/medal case. 
   


Attached Files Image(s)
   
   
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#17
it all depends on your level of comfort so I agree, 

it can be pretty simple  (my solution) or you can build something a bit more elaborate 

The key is to do something rather than just depend on the stock coming out of the saw on a knife point. 

That is sure to fail 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#18
(03-27-2017, 09:53 AM)JGrout Wrote: The key is to do something rather than just depend on the stock coming out of the saw on a knife point. 

That is sure to fail 

Joe

Yep
Yes
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#19
Any reason not to use a tenoning jig (the ubiquitous Grizzly, Delta, Shop Fox variety) and just angle the 'tenon' to 30*?

Pedro
I miss nested quotes..........
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#20
I've always found that a tenoning jig has limitations for stock size, but you're right, if you had small enough pieces to fit into one, it would also work. That is why I like the box, theoretically as long as you clamp firmly, the stock could extend past the edges of your box, allowing for some pretty large pieces to work.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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