Posts: 247
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2004
I was going through the junk in my garage and found a brand new Rockler router table (made of MDF with melamine finish) meant for a JessEm Rout-R-Lift, the cutout size being 11-3/4" X 14-3/4". JessEm no longer makes the Rout-R-Lift. This has been superseded by the Rout-R-Lift II, which is much smaller in size (9-1/4" x 11-3/4"). This being the case, I need to build an "adapter plate" that will mount in the current space (i.e., 11.75"x14.75"), and then route a hole in it for the new router plate (whatever that might be). My questions:
1. Is it worth building the adapter plate of should I just write off this table and get a new one ?
2. If it is worth making an "adapter plate", what material should I make it out of, assuming my router plate will be a simple aluminum one from Rockler, for example: http://www.rockler.com/rockler-aluminum-...ter-plates
I felt MDF may not a good candidate for an "adapter plate", given its low strength, and thought of making it out of 3/4" birch plywood. However, the router table is 1-1/8" inch thick and so there would still be a shortfall in thickness. Given that ply is much stronger than MDF (from a bending/deflection standpoint), would 3/4" ply work ? Would it make sense to layer 1/4" ply over 3/4" and then stick laminate on top to give me a total thickness of just over 1" ?
Alternatively, if an adapter plate approach is not going to cut it for a router, should I just convert it to a work table for some other purpose ?
Any thoughts/suggestions on this would be welcome. The overall dimensions of the router table are roughly 32" x 24", with thickness being exactly 1-1/8".
Thanks !
Posts: 2,038
Threads: 1
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Mechanicsville, Md
Ok, if my calculations are correct, your adapter plate will be 1 1/4" on 2 sides and 1 1/2" on the other side. I think MDF would be fine for this. If you want (and I suggest it), route the current opening deeper, maybe a total of 5/8" deep, then rabbet the MDF to sit flush to the top.
I hope this makes sense but I believe MDF will be fine.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
Posts: 247
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2004
Thanks for the suggestion. If I were to use MDF, should I be using the 3/4" as is, or should I add an additional sheet to it (e.g., 1/4" ply or wood) in order to increase the overall thickness to 1" ? Also, do you see any value in driving in screws from the side of the adapter plate into the main router table ?
Posts: 6,755
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2001
Location: Post Falls, ID
I think Garry nailed it. As for what to use, I think I'd lean toward gluing 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF together to make the filler plate. I would also add a piece of plastic laminate to the top to give it a smoother finish, making it easier to push stock through the bit...
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
Posts: 2,038
Threads: 1
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Mechanicsville, Md
(07-09-2017, 03:53 AM)Big Dave Wrote: I think Garry nailed it. As for what to use, I think I'd lean toward gluing 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF together to make the filler plate. I would also add a piece of plastic laminate to the top to give it a smoother finish, making it easier to push stock through the bit...
Dave
See, that's why I love this place. I started with what I thought was a good idea. Then Big Dave comes along and makes it even better. I never thought of doing it that way. After reading his suggestion, that's what I would do. The shop I work in has a ton of scrap laminate, at least 3 times a year we clean out the racks and throw it away. Ask around at local cabinet shops or better yet, a counter top shop, that's where we get so much scrap, laminate tops. Usually we give it away if it's a small piece.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
Posts: 247
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2004
Thanks guys - much appreciated ! I should have some laminate around, left over from when I made a zero clearance throat plate for my circular saw. I had used contact cement to stick the laminate on, at that time. Is there any advantage to using Titebond instead ?
Posts: 2,038
Threads: 1
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Mechanicsville, Md
Nope, contact cement is preferred.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
Posts: 247
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,755
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2001
Location: Post Falls, ID
07-09-2017, 08:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-09-2017, 08:44 PM by Big Dave.)
(07-09-2017, 07:44 AM)museumguy Wrote: See, that's why I love this place. I started with what I thought was a good idea. Then Big Dave comes along and makes it even better. I never thought of doing it that way. After reading his suggestion, that's what I would do.
This same thing has happened to me more times than I can count, Garry!
I will say, though, that it's not often where my ideas are "better"....
Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
(07-09-2017, 08:43 PM)Big Dave Wrote: I will say, though, that it's not often where my ideas are "better"....
Dave
Dave you are batting closer to 1000 than a lot of folks here. Your shop/shrine to woodworkers everywhere, is testament to that.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya 
GW
|
