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[quote pid='7567121' dateline='1514152985']
A bit embarrassed to post a picture; it's really not much of a piece, but here you go...
[/quote]
You are right, it is not much of a piece, but it is well executed and looks great. Utilitarian is fine. We all do it. It is a necessary part of life and a great way to practice.
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
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(12-24-2017, 05:33 PM)jppierson Wrote: I don't see anything whatsoever to be embarrassed about! Nice project.
What he said. Nice job. The fact your Mrs. enjoys your hobby with you is another win!
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and in conclusion...
a friend (an experienced woodworker) dropped by today and i showed him my piece. he ran his finger over the mitered bits and asked, "Did you sand these?" i said i had not. he said, "wow."
i felt pretty good about that. (here's me, patting us all on the back).
also, SWMBO is, in a word, quite pleased.
WINNING!
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I avoid using a ruler whenever possible.
I like to directly transfer the dimension by marking the actual stock to be cut. If that fails a story-stick.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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It probably would not help much for your application, but:
For picture frames, I use the following formula:
+ Size of "package" (mat, glass, etc.)
+ 2 * width of frame from outside edge of frame to edge of rabbet
+ 1/8" (allows for expansion, slight out of square, runout in glass/mat cutting, etc.
=
outside point of miter cut
Since I use a sliding miter table like above, this is easiest for me to see to line up saw blade.
In framing, "it's better to be the same than exact" Meaning if you are 1/16" over on both pieces, it's better than to be +1/32 on one piece and -1/64 on the corresponding piece. I usually line them up back to back and check to see if they are the same. If you are cutting pieces that need to be identical, a stop block helps.
