Ruler trick - any reason not to use it?

[Juss1]

Sorry for All the questions.    Besides chisels are there any instances where the ruler trick should not be used.  Would it not be advisable on bevel up and shooting planes (I have the veritas if that matters) as well?  Also how far from the edge do you place the ruler.

[Handplanesandmore]

I do not use the trick on my Japanese blades.

The ruler is placed flush with the edge of the stone.

Simon

[MauleSkinner]

As long as you don’t put on so much back bevel that you don’t have a clearance angle, I don’t see a problem with bevel-up planes.

[AHill]

The only reason not to use it is if the back is already flat. Once you flatten the back of a stone, you're done. You never need to go back to flattening the back again. Also, don't use the ruler trick on chisels. If you're paring or flush trimming a plug, that 2/3 degree back bevel will leave a bump that you will need to remove by sanding or scraping.

[adamcherubini]

What about curved irons? I’m fine with the concept.

[rwe2156]

The back still needs to be flat, at least across the first 1/2" or so in order to hone the edge + the cap iron to function.

RT is just a way to get a sharper edge and/or create an effectively higher frog angle.

[wmickley]

Sorry for All the questions.    Besides chisels are there any instances where the ruler trick should not be used.  Would it not be advisable on bevel up and shooting planes (I have the veritas if that matters) as well?  Also how far from the edge do you place the ruler.

If you are constantly buying new planes or new plane irons, the ruler trick will save time getting started. The downside is that you then have to use the ruler every time you sharpen.

If you use a plane iron until it is worn out, the time spent initially, getting the back flat near the edge, is easily made up by the time saved by not having to fool with a ruler each time you sharpen.

[Timberwolf]

If you are constantly buying new planes or new plane irons, the ruler trick will save time getting started. The downside is that you then have to use the ruler every time you sharpen.

If you use a plane iron until it is worn out, the time spent initially, getting the back flat near the edge, is easily made up by the time saved by not having to fool with a ruler each time you sharpen.

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I can't remember ever having a problem just holding the iron flat against a flat stone...never needed a ruler...to me it is solving a non-existent problem. But to each his own..

[Handplanesandmore]

C'mon guys. How much time are we talking about here in terms of saving in using or in not using the ruler trick? Seconds a time! In the grand scheme of things, it's nothing. I find many woodworkers wasting/losing their time not because of taking up one method of [fill in the blank as you like] or not, but because of impatience, making mistakes after mistakes, processes after processes, and projects after projects.

Ruler or not, the trick is be persistent in using the method that works, and become a master of it. 

Simon

[hbmcc]

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I can't remember ever having a problem just holding the iron flat against a flat stone...never needed a ruler...to me it is solving a non-existent problem.  But to each his own..

I think most remarks so far echo my own thoughts. It's enough to work one bevel [and a flat] without adding a second bevel to the regimen. Plus, if you look for wire edges--or not--you are probably stroking the back to hurry along a sharper edge. Mostly, I look at the used crap I am dealt and buy a new blade. The junk reminds me of an axe attacked by monkey on the end of an angle grinder, and then used to cut a trench through a forest floor.