Daniel S said:

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Our community garden used 12' T posts and 8' welded(hog) wire. That surrounds their 18 fruit trees.

It's a great form, and the bookmatch and using all of the wood makes it visually very interesting. My motto is embrace the imperfection, so it works for me, but I know some want straight plain looks, so it might not be everyone's cup of tea. In that regard if you are happy, that is what matters

Are the handles twigs? Please post a closer view.

All acid type fluids will to that to metal. That's why I never use it on a saw blade. Even Evapo-Rust will leave a white scum on the metal, but it can be easily removed for the most part, but a saw blade will still be discolored with a matte finish that is not easy to remove.

The only way I can think of to remove that stuff is with a fine wire brush, by hand.

Were you trying to sharpen the files or just remove some rust?

Look up the specs on similar sized jointers.
https://d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/sp...593_ds.pdf
Typically they use 3450 rpm motors. More torque. 5500 cutter head speed is common. Slower speeds just mean slower feeding. My old Oliver 16" with direct drive was 3450 rpm. You guys need to learn to search. Just new people asking old questions.

The wife made me go to dinner before I could post the picture...



The thing in front is a vertical post to turn it into a small mill. I have no clue if it works well yet.

I just drill a hole to fit, fill it with epoxy and jam the tail of the file into it. Mine have never come loose.

You'll note there is a multitude of screw type, either with a screwdriver, wrench, or thumbscrew in 6" size, There are not the pinch together wire type though. I have some of the 4" thinking them to be quick and easy to use. What I have found is they will not hold tight on my higher rated DC. On my junky less powerful DC they stay on fine. My conclusion is they aren't rated high enough for hold to work well on a 6" dc.

Having used the thumbscrew variety I can say they are fast, and you don't need a tool to swap them out. They also offer a sound hold with no slipping off of the tube from the DC male end. This may prove to be your only workable clamp.

A work around is to use a conventional clamp on a short piece of tube, and one of these at the end.





Then just screw the tube for the DC to the stub piece on the tool.

Well, I just came a cross a popular mechanics article with someone asking the exact question. The answer was that it is normal for delta light-industrial machines. They use a transformer to create 24v to use for the magnetic switch.

Now my question is can I get rid of that and just wire up a newer mag switch? I don't really like the idea of a transformer sitting there powered up all the time and it would be nice not to have to plug and unplug it every time I use it.

Bob

I used Kreg's solution - shocking I know but no pic handy of it lol.