I have a Harvey C14 bandsaw and I’m looking for a blade that will give good quality cuts. Hoping to find something that will give smooth sand ready

I have had bad luck with Timberwolf blades. Several breaking at the weld after shortly after changing or after one project. Personally I consider them are junk.

I have used regular carbon Lennox blades when I had a small bandsaw and liked the performance they gave.

Now that I have a bigger bandsaw capable of resawing I need a good resaw blade that isn’t $200. Size blade the saw takes is 125” and the manual saws it can handle 1” but seems like it would max out the tension with that wide of a blade.

Some may enjoy pictures of whaat I do.

Sash Saw
Karelian Masur Birch
350mm long
78mm deep
11 TPI croscut









the last one is with a carved sawyer, i got from my daughter and Wife for my 50st brithday last year. Wonderfulled in Canada, by https://www.instagram.com/aeminotti

Take Care, Pedder

Not my work, but Randy's! 


Enjoy.

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Cedar fence boards from Home Depot made into wings and rings..
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tTNOBv8svc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st-pIumZjW4

   


Orange for Agent Orange Awareness.

44"  wingspan x 30" long

Making a 12inch vase from a piece of American Smoke Tree burl and Alumilite Deep Pour resin.

Well, my Woodmaster 38” drum sander was long overdue to get the Velcro on the drum replaced.

The Velcro fabric itself peeled off easily, but it left a tremendous amount of adhesive residue.

My tips:
- use gel paint stripper. I used Keen Kutter Stripper from - HD, complete with warnings about the risk of fatalities. Common solvents like acetone don’t do much. Use PPD.
- use a steel drywall knife to scrape off the softened adhesive
- find an assistant to turn the drum while you scrape (like peeling a log)
- plan on it still taking several hours
- use rags for the final cleaning. Paper towels leave lint.

The strip and scrape routine got about 99% of the adhesive. The rest was soft enough to remove with acetone and then mineral spirits.

-Mark

I bet this is going to yield some nice lumber, especially the 30" diameter butt log on the trailer which looks perfectly clear.  



I had to have them cut to only 7 ft long to keep the weight within the limit of my 2000 lb trailer.  I think these are going to yield around 400 bf of lumber.  

John

A couple weeks ago I attended the CRAFTS of NJ tool auction and won a couple of lots of block planes. The ones I won contained some Stanley knuckle back block planes. A type I've always been intrigued by. I'm not sure if it was because I was rushing to look over the tools before the auction or I just plain forgot, I never looked at the mouths of either of the knuckle back block planes. And yep, both were toast. They were chipped and broken beyond repair. So here I am, stuck with a bunch of parts for block planes I can't use. Does anyone have a body for the No65 they'd be willing to sell? It would have to include the mouth piece since these seem to be fit to each plane. I had parts from several and they didn't fit in each other's body. I contacted Michael Jenks at JustPlaneFun and he was fresh out. He sent me a No65 body that had hairline crack near the mouth just to mess with. But when I went to flatten the sole, the mouth chipped out even more.

The good news is that I got some other cool block planes from the lot. One was an Ohio Tools double ended block plane. Not a great performer but cool looking as hell! There was a couple pristine Stanley No 9 1/4 block planes, a Stanley 102 as well as a Sargent knuckle back block plane. It has a very cool mouth opening mechanism and seems like it's built very stout. (Can't wait to clean up that one and give it a try).

So if you have a Stanley No65 you'd be willing to part with or part out, let me know

Please don't PM me. I never get notifications and it's easy for a PM to get lost. Email me at DominicGreco@netscape.net

Hoping to find a replacement for the adjustable height table that goes with the North Brothers Yankee 1003 hand crank drill press.

Looking for the whole table setup that includes the work table that inserts into a cast fitting, with a threaded rod and handwheel that raises and lowers the table.

Located in SF Bay area but happy to pay shipping. 

If you have a complete Yankee 1003 drill press you want to sell instead of parts, let me know that too!

Just fishing for recommendations on sandblasting kits.
I have an air compressor, so do I really need a full kit with a tank?
I don’t have a lot to do so don’t want to break the bank on this, but also don’t want to go too cheap on this and sacrifice too much performance and time either.
First job on the list is to sandblast years and layers of paint off the rod iron on my front porch. That might require some basic paint stripper first.
Anyway, thanks for the recommendations.