I recently got some really nice lumber from a dealer going out of business. The auction was promoted here on the S&S forum in fact. One of the lots was about 140 BF of Yellow Birch. I was expecting some plain wood that could be used for drawer boxes and the like. I was pleasently surprised to find out that the majority of it is actually Red Birch or yellow birch heart wood. When I was working at a cabinet shop it would come through once in awhile as trim or moulding buy rarely a big project. I over-bought at the auction and would like to sell a few of the boards. They are all 6/4 10 ft and vary in width from 4-8 inches. I'm not even sure if "red birch" is a thing in other parts of the country but I would hope its worth a bit more that the 2.25 plain birch goes for around my parts. Can anyone give me their input on a price for this lumber?
I recently got a Rockwell 15-665, 15" drill press from 1960s. It is in great condition and I would like to upgrade the chuck to a keyless one. The existing chuck has both Jacobs 33 taper and a threaded connection. My search so far indicates there is no direct replacement keyless chuck for this. I assume a chuck with Jacobs 33 taper should be sufficient. Looks like Jacobs brand 1/2" capacity keyless chuck goes for about $100. Of course there is Albrecht but it is very pricey. I would like to hear from those who has the Jacobs chuck about their views on it. Given those are now made in Asia, are they still high quality with minimal to no runout, or should I look for other brands instead of Jacobs?
I'm remodeling our master bath To the left of the vanity I'm building will be a makeup counter for my wife. It will sit a few inches lower than the vanity top. The wall in that area is recessed 12" where our shower used to be. I plan on making a desk with a drawer that will fit between the vanity and the wall--no legs. The counter top will be scribed around the corner since the vanity doesn't extend all the way to the end of that short wall. I'm planning to make a countertop-to-ceiling built-in that will fit in that 12" recess.
On the right hand side of the built-in, I'm thinking the edge of the built-in will be trimmed out with wood that will wrap around the corner towards the vanity and extend down to fill the 2-3" gap between the short wall and the vanity.
I'm not quite sure what to do on the left hand side since that is just one flat wall. Maybe make the built-in 2" short of that wall and do a similar return to give it a similar thickness to the right hand side.
I'm also looking for ideas on how to secure the built-in to the wall and not have exposed fasteners. For a previous built-in, I screwed through the shelf pin holes, but the bottom section of this built-in won't have any of that. I'm going for a sleek/modern look so the sides will be flat and there won't be molding to hide screws under. The back (36"x60") will be a sheet of plywood maybe of my own making. The whole thing will be walnut. Maybe it's dark enough for me to the wall and hide with colored filler? I can screw through the back to the studs because a framed mirror will cover the lower section.
It seems that actually delivering packages is way too much trouble for UPS these days. So they've decided to cut back on deliveries in some circumstances. If a package requires someone to accept it, e.g. a signature is required or a COD charge applies, they will make one attempt to deliver and if no one is available, they divert the package to an "Access Point" for the consignee to pick up on their own time and at their own expense. They leave a little post it note to tell you they didn't deliver your package.
This applies even if the failure of the one delivery attempt is a UPS error. (I learned about all this when a delivery person wrongly thought my package was due a COD payment and I was not available to deal with the delivery. Might not have made much difference if I had been there, since I knew there was no COD payment due, while the driver somehow thought there was. Of course the attempted delivery was on a Friday and the package didn't get forwarded to the designated "Access Point" until Monday. Between drive time and standing in line at the "Access Point" I invested just over an hour of lost productivity.)
Through the years I've generally had good experiences with UPS. Better than with FedEx (which may be a local variable). This new policy, however, is likely to be problematic for home deliveries and small businesses on occasion if vendors require signatures or for those who make COD purchases. It will also be a problem whenever UPS makes an error in delivery. In my experience, UPS customer service was not much help. Rather surly, too (but that may be a local issue).
I would say, whether you're buying or selling, don't go for "signature required" or COD deliveries or any other features that require personal interaction unless you have someone sure to be available to receive a delivery. Otherwise, unhappiness will ensue and undoubtedly you will be blamed.
My vendor is probably more upset about this than I am. They have more to lose than I do. They are pursuing the issue with UPS.
I hope this is not a trend setting development that we can expect FedEx, DHL and USPS to follow. And I am looking forward to the new Amazon delivery service. More competition can't hurt.
Hi,
I just restored a 37-220 Delta Rockwell 6" jointer. I have not used a jointer in the past.
My question is how to make sure the wood piece stays referenced to the fence as well as going crossed the knives.
First I joint one side flat. Then I put that face against the fence and joint an adjacent side.
The first step can be done with downward pressure only. The second step involves putting pressure on the piece at a 45 degree angle aimed at the fence/table intersection. How is that done? I get how this would work with a board but my question is about jointing a square piece ( 1 to 2" square). I have some push blocks but I don't think they would work well on the second step with a small pice of wood.
How do you do this on your jointer or am I worried about something that I don't need to be worried about?
I have brand new Pony #50 pipe clamp fixtures. Bought it before they stopped manufacturing it. I have 4, will sell as a bundle only. I will also throw in 4 of the Rockler ez-clutches for free, also brand new. Each one sells on ebay for 35+$. All four can be picked up from Naperville, IL for 95$ cash. Or I can ship it for 110$ Paypal gift option. Photo attached.
Lately I've been experimenting with casting various objects in epoxy. With "dead" things like rocks, shells and dried leaves it's fairly straightforward.
After watching a couple of YouTube videos, like this one and this one, I wanted to try casting "green" stuff like fresh leaves or pieces of moss or bark. So far all my experiments have been one spectacular fiasco after another.
Starting at about the 7-minute mark of the 2nd video, you can see what appears to be fresh moss or a similar plant being cast by simply pouring epoxy over it. And it seems to work like magic!
Not sure what epoxy product he used, but I experimented with two different ones, with more or less the same results: System3 Mirrorcoat and Alumilite Clear. All I got was lots and lots of small bubbles. The attached photo is a top view of one such attempt (sorry for the blurry photo, my phone camera sucks). Tried a small piece of bark that I dried at a lowest temp in a toaster for about 40 minutes. Where's the bark, you might ask? Trust me, it's there Complete hidden by the bubbles that formed as the epoxy was curing.
What am I doing wrong? Are the bubbles caused by water in the bark evaporating from the heat of the curing epoxy? Or is this some gas which is a product of some sort of chemical reaction between the epoxy and something in the bark? Is there a way around it?
By the way, my ultimate goal is to incorporate this into my woodworking projects...
Doing some Spring cleaning and need your advise on which table saw tenoning jig to keep and which to sell. In addition, what do you think I should price them at?
1) Newer Delta
2) Older Rockwell (with miter gauge feature???)
(I think it is similar to what Buckaroo has in the swap-n-sell section, but missing a few of the miter pieces)
Complete hidden by the bubbles that formed as the epoxy was curing.
