liquidation continues, group of spokeshaves & tool roll
Stanley 151 curved sole
Stanley 153 flat sole
Kunz Record 1/2 round, concave blade
two extra blades - one new, one used
group smaller brass shaves, sold as luthier shaves
Veritas spokeshave tool roll, space for 8 std size shaves & 4 miniature

Sell for $100 + sh/ppf (fits medium flat rate box)

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Haven't posted much, with regard to saws. I have been busy installing new windows and doors in my house as well as wiring, etc. etc. All that fun stuff. So I took the time to make a carcass saw for a return customer from almost 10 years ago. Wow, how time zips by. I also have been working on that folded back project from many moons ago that just kept getting pushed aside. So now, finally, I am able to make some stainless and other steel folded backs. Still needs refining, but I am working on it. If I am lucky, I may even finish my house by the time I am 90 y/o.


IMG_4595 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
IMG_4596 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
Future Stainless back dovetail by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
This little gizmo compresses both folded and slotted backs. The fixture was originally designed for a smaller press, but it just didn't have the tonnage required to compress the stainless backs to the radius intended. Soooo had to do a little modification. Would've liked to have gotten a bigger and better one, but then I already have a lack of space. ( and budget )

"Coming soon to a theater near you". Well, maybe. Time will tell.

20230604_210846 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr

My house has a ventilated attic.  There is insulation, installed in the mid 1960s, but only thin fiberglass batts covered with kraft paper.  it is not even close to being as think as the joists.  I would prefer to avoid adding blown-in insulation.  Could additional mineral wool or fiber glass batts be placed on the existing kraft paper faced fiberglass batts?  If "yes," should the new insulation be faced or unfaced?

precision curved base spokeshave, for concave surfaces & inside curves
Dave's Shave -  Spokeshave #0 compass shave - maker signed
1 1/2"  wide blade, 9"overall, brass sole, rounded sole, near as new condition
depth cut set with set screws (allowing very precision adjusting & reset after putting blade back in)
gorgeous figured maple, ebony? foot extension on sole
available new on Dave's Shave site for $210, offer for $100 (conus shipping included)
delightful  shave for  detail finish work.
Ray

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I'm making a little case of drawers for small things in the shop - similar to a Gerstner in scale. Eight drawers ranging from 1.25" high to 2.5". I would like to have the pulls or knobs range also from <1/2" to <1". That's what I'm having a difficult time finding. Lots of knobs out there at one inch in diameter and up. I haven't been able to find very much in smaller sizes. Brass would be nice, but it's for the workshop so really anything goes. I put some 1/2" hardware store pine knobs on it and they looked like clown noses on the small drawer fronts.

(I normally turn small Shaker style pulls for this kind of thing, but I'm without a lathe right now.)

Anyone have a suggestion? Thanks...

I have the following Bosch tools for sale:

Model 3915 10" compound miter with T4B gravity rise stand. Has a Freud blade on it. Asking $450 for the pair.

Model ROS65VC orbital sander. Comes with 5" & 6" pads, as well as 6 boxes of discs from 100 - 400 grit, almost full. Asking $165.

All in great working order. Located in Charlotte, NC. Please PM for pictures - I can't get them to post to save my life (and yes, I read the instructions).

Thanks,
John

Folks, 

I have a trim question.  In the attached pictures, you will se a glass pane installed in the wall between 2x boards with wall board on the outside of the 2x boards.  If you were me, how would you add trim/moulding?  Obviously, job 1 is to hide the wall board edge, but I have no idea how to make it look like it was installed by someone who knew what he was doing.

Thanks,
Mark

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I live in Arizona and have a 3.5 ton Carrier HVAC system which has run for 24 years.  Over the last 6 years or so, the condenser fan motor bearings have given me problems now and then (squeaking and seizing) and I have had to take apart the motor, clean and lubricate it, and put it back.    However, it's now got to a stage where I need to replace the motor the next time this happens and was wondering how I should go about doing this.  Here are my options:

1. Buy an original Carrier replacement motor (Part No. HC37GE210A, made by GE; GE Part No. 5KCP39JG-S283BS), with specs as follows:  1/5HP, 825rpm, 208 to 230 volts AC, thermally protected, 7.5mF capacitor
Questions:
a) Is it worth spending a fortune (upwards of $370) and buying the original spare or should I buy an after-market product for far, far less ?
b) If I am to buy the original, who should I buy it from ?  Carrier does not list its spare parts distributors on it's web site (at least, I could not find it) and I don't want to pay a high price and land up with a spurious product from a shady operator.

2. Buy an aftermarket product at a much lower cost (as low as $115), to last another 3 to 5 years, as I will likely change my HVAC by then.  I don't want to change it right now for a multitude of reasons.
a) If I should buy an aftermarket product, what are good, reliable brands and who should I buy it from ?
b) What sort of warranty can I expect and how long could I expect it to last ?
c) The original motor has a sleeve bearing.  Should I be looking at ball bearings ?  Are they available with ball bearings ?

The circuit diagram is attached.  The system uses a split capacitor 7.5mF + 55mF, with 7.5 for fan and 55 for Compressor.  The shape is cylindrical.  I plan to change the capacitor when I change the motor.  What brand of capacitor ought I to buy. When I did a search on Google, there were a ton of them available. They vary in price from about $16 to $50 and are all made in China .... so what's the difference ?  Are there specific brands that are reliable ?

All practical advice from folks who have done this before or who have first hand information would be much appreciated !

Thanks !

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  38BY-3W Wiring Diagram.pdf (Size: 69.75 KB / Downloads: 5)

My spray room is approximately 10 1/2' x 7' x 9'.  I spray exclusively waterborne finishes so I see no need to exhaust to the outside.  I just need to be able to get filtered air into the room and also filter the air as it leaves the room.  Approximately 660 cubic feet of air in the room.

What kind of fan do people use?  I wondered about the fan mentioned in the air cleaner thread but I don't know how many CFM's I really need.  I would think exchanging the air volume every 30 - 60 seconds would work or am I wrong??!!

I am looking to buy a portable cyclone dust collector  2hp or higher
My current dust collector is 110 volt and all my tools are 110 volt, I use a tool activated switch to turn my dust collector.

The new dust collector will probably going to be 220 Volt about 5 amp. This will be a little challenge and how to activate the dust collector when I start the tool as they will be on separate circuit and separate voltage.

My current tool activated switch has accessory output, where I plug my current dust collector , I am thinking about using the same output , use relay and start the new 220 volt dust collector, I have done search on web but so far could not find a schematic also could not find a offshelf device. May be I am not looking into correct places.

Any help will be appreciated to find a solution

Thanks

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