https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/d...24907.html

Looking to get a bench top oscillating spindle sander a ride from Winston Salem, NC to Hampton Va. Will easily fit in a SUV. Fairly light weight. Sander can be disassembled from the shop built stand. Let me know if this fits your travel plans.

Thanks
Rick

I have had a lock miter router bit in a drawer for years and never used it.

Yesterday I had a box project that I decided to try it on.

The box would require the locking miter bit to cut end grain as the box is only 2.75 inches deep and about 12.75 inches long and just over 6 5/8 front to back.

I tried the bit on some scrap and it seems that holding a piece that’s 12.75 tall and 2.75 wide is going to be problematic when running the piece upright against the fence.
I couldn’t get it to feed smoothly.

Most of the videos I’ve seen on lock miter bits shows them cutting with the grain.

Is there some trick to getting these lock miter bits to cut end grain well, or am I just trying to use it wrong?

Thanks in advance
Duke

I have an exterior light that works based off of a light sensor (on at night, off during the day).  But recently I noticed that the light is on all the time.  My first thought was maybe the lens cover was just so dirty that it always thought it was dark, but after cleaning it that doesn't seem to be the case.  Just based on what the thing looks like, I think I know what part I need to replace it (but will verify once I take off the cover).  What I'm not sure of is what I need be be aware of/how I seal a plate that is outside (I've changed switches and outlets inside, but never outside). 

Based on the photos it appears the builder put something around the plate to keep water out, and it is obviously in pretty poor shape at this point.  What should I be using?  And is there anything else I need to be aware of?  I would imagine that any connections/wire nuts in the box you want higher in the box in case water leaks into it, then at least the water would be below the wires/connections.  Anything else?

   
   

Making a 9 x 16 inch charcuterie board from a black walnut cap left over from milling and Alumilite Deep pour resin.

WTB

Mortise and Tenon Mag. Issues 12-17.

Thanks, 

PM here or e-mail cpa@taxmancpa.com

Project is completed...now what.   Shop needs a good, thorough straightening up...tools to sharpen, tools to put away....and find out what is buried under the mess..

Maybe a week's worth of work?  

Meantime?    Will be watching/reading other people's Build Threads.....Get busy..

My new to me house front door and side lights need to be refinished. The bottom of door and side lights show considerable weathering.

I want to refinish without stripping. Any suggestions on a clear coat?

I live in central Louisiana, we see plenty of heat and humidity and yes, rain!

Greg

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resawed some 4/4 maple to use making drawers.  Some of the drawers are taller than the maple was wide so I will be gluing up to complete the job.  As the material is a nominal 3/8" I'll have some glue-up to do. Broke out the PC biscuit joiner, thinking I would use the small biscuits that use the 2" blade.  The blade wasn't in the case.  WTH, I'll just order a new one, can't be more than $8-10.  Wrong, OEM blade is $95.  The whole biscuit joining machine is $250. 

Started looking in all the places I'd be if I were a joiner blade.  Several drawers later, several toolboxes later, I finally found the missing blade on a pullout shelf of loose tools in a cabinet.  I was getting worried as there isn't a flat surface in my shop that isn't stacked with "stuff".  I just found $100.  Winner Winner. Chicken dinner.

I can't believe PC thinks $95 is a reasonable price for a blade in a $250 tool.  Its like building a car from scratch using parts from the dealer's parts counter.  If you have a 577 joiner, take the spare blade, put it in a safe deposit box and list it in your will.

I tore apart a non-functioning LG dehumidifier and kept the fan motor in hopes it might be adaptable to another unit that works fine except for the fan, which I cannot find a replacement for.  Make sense?  Anyway, the fan motor has 3 wires, red, yellow, and black, yellow and red on one side of the coil and black on the other.  All have continuity to the others.  

I'm wondering if one of the wires goes to a capacitor, which I foolishly didn't think about when I tore it apart and then disposed of.  Does anyone have insight into how these motors need to be wired?  The fan in the other dehumidifier is a simple 2 wire plus ground that even I can understand.  Thanks in advance.

Now that I think about it, the dehumidifier had a high/low feature so maybe it's a two-speed fan.  

John