Outlet not powering what I plug in unless I wiggle the plug and get lucky. Actually, outlets -- true for both of them. Figure wiring is dodgy or receptacle is bad -- replace receptacle. Same behavior.

What would cause this?

Thanks,

I've been using the Blum Cliptop 170 degree Overlay self closing hinge with a 9MM mounting plate, 3mm spacer and a restricter clip for applications where the cabinet doors have both a 1/4" inset and overlay.   It's a good solution for a concealed hinge, but it lacks the integral Blumotion dampner and it is a fairly large hinge.   I'm wondering if anyone knows of a newer Blum or similar hinge that would work in that situation, be smaller and include blumotion or something similiar?

Thanks,
Dave

I'm building several wooden boxes with sliding lids. These are made to hold photographs and are of typical design. I'm trying to come up with something a bit different for the lid handle.  I know I could just drill a finger hole. I've also made them where the handle is mitered into the box so when closed, it disguises that the lid slides open. I'd like to add a little wow factor with a contrasting handle, maybe of some contrasting or exotic wood. I would appreciate any ideas on a way to dress up the design. Thanks!

My son is finishing his basement. He has about 140 linear feet of framing to build. He would like to buy a framing nailer capable of shooting 3.5" nails and a compressor that will do the job. This will most likely be used for one time. Of course he doesn't want to overspend. Any ideas for what he needs and probable costs would be appreciated. Thanks.

For quite some time I have wanted to learn to carve. To this end, over the years I have gathered what I thought to be the best carving chisels made.  Unfortunately, I have come to realize that I will never have the time to learn this wonderful skill.  Since that is the way things have worked out, there is no sense in having these superb tools waste away under my bench.  I have never used them nor have I attempted sharpening them.  They are a full set of Cape Forge large chisels.

"These tools are a joy to use and will soon become your favorites. We custom make them to your specifications because we understand that everyone has different needs when it comes to their tools. You pick the blade style and width of the tool that you prefer. The basic shapes and sizes are listed below, but you are always welcome to deviate from the norm. The shaft length can vary from 2" to 12" depending on your needs; the average length is 4" to 5". We use our "E" or "E-1 handle for it is the most versatile . The edge geometry is designed for hand use, but may be used with a mallet."

"1/4" to 3/4"  
& 7/8 to 1 18"
prices range from $74 and up"    Cape Forge



This set of sixteen chisels are pristine in condition, never having been sharpened.  Retail for them would be well over $1,200.  I will let them go to someone who would use and appreciate them for $800 OBO.

I'm closing my shop. I will continue to work with wood. Just more as a hobby.




Tools available for purchase ore mostly smalls, nail guns, Senclamp nailgun, misc belt sanders, Jet Lathe that need a new tailstock thing, Hitachi joiner planer,
Don't really want to get into a back and forth about what I have for sale and what I want for it. Prices will be fair to wow in favor of selling rather than keeping.

I purchased this older blue Jet 15" planer a couple years back.  I am new to this style of planer and I've never changed the blades on it.  I recently picked up a new set of HSS blades for it and while waiting their arrival I thought I'd do myself a favor and remove all the blades to clean the head and gibbs.  Well the blades have arrived but I think I may have created a more complicated task for resetting them being I removed all the blades without finding the height with a dial indicator or other knife setting jig prior to removal.

I watched the Grizzly video on the planer pal jig where they find the "factory" height setting on a set blade and then they change them one at a time.  They mention the need to readjust the pressure feed rollers if the same blade height isn't reset.  This is something I really want to avoid if all possible.  Can anybody shed some light on how I should proceed from here?  Surely I'm not the first one to do this.  Here's a few pics of the head and machine.

I am about halfway through my current project, I'll try to give a status update soon.  But I need to go ahead and order the finish and start practicing with it.

I am making a small tool chest, from African mahogany.  In the past on other projects I have used danish oil, BLO, or shellac.  I haven't had good luck with shellac; I struggle to get even color.  I attribute it to either old finish (i.e. I let it sit too long on my shelf), or user error.  The only time I have had good success on a project, I went to the store, bought some shellac, and used it that day.  That project finished well...  

Here's the deal, I want to use either Tried and True or Waterlox.  I hear great things about both. I know one is an oil, and one is a varnish... I have never used either.  Which would look the best on mahogany, and for the application I'm using it for?

Which of these would be capable of being my go to finish for most of my projects?

One hot day this summer, whilst trolling that famous auction site, I spied a sad Rock Island woodworking vise with a busted nose. It weighs 25+ pounds and is front heavy. The most obvious cause of injury was a fall to the floor accompanied by a positive test of the "butter side down" theory. Upon seeing the carnage wrought, bidders went screaming for the exits. Except for me, the bottom feeding tool doctor with a soft spot for the afflicted and unwanted. A single bid brought it to my doorstep with shipping somewhat higher than purchase price. I stripped it down and began to ponder the repair.




Of course, the vise is usable as is as long as the user avoids hammering on the handle. There is an outside chance that the break will continue. It is quite a project to mount a vise like this and a future break would probably occur at an inopportune time so a fix is in order. Replacement parts are available--not for this specific vise--but suitable to fit a 1" leadscrew. But these replacement parts would exceed the cost of the vise. I went to HD to see if they could help.

Ordinary plumbing Tee parts are too short in the neck but a short piece seemed to be the trick. A coupler could provide a collar. Here is what I brought home.




Then I got out my Dremel and began a grinding fest. The inside of the casting was not round like the pipe.




I also filed the pipe to take down high spots. About twenty minutes of work gave me this result.




Then it was off to the cutoff wheel and the stationary grinder. Here is the result.




Looking good. It is shoved in for a tight pressure fit but I will insert a few pins to keep it from rotating. The force of a vise handle is considerable and I don't want the dang thing to fall out. Stay tuned for the next installment of "Rock Island--From Rags to Riches".

And your toddler's toys come in handy.