How do you cut the fascia for this stair stringer?
#20
(11-01-2022, 08:03 AM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: The risers are blocked.  IIRC, since there are 4 risers and 9 steps, I put in 18 bocks.

By blocked, he means that the risers should be closed off, not open.  He's right.   The intent is so that a foot (or small child) can't slip under and get stuck.   Here the requirement is that stairs of any height have closed risers, not just those over 36".  Plus, they look a lot better when they are closed off.

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#21
Bigger issue is how the stairs tie into the header. For safety's sake you should install a couple posts, or install a new header under the existing one to attach the stringers.
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#22
(11-01-2022, 10:08 AM)crokett™ Wrote: By blocked, he means that the risers should be closed off, not open.  He's right.   The intent is so that a foot (or small child) can't slip under and get stuck.   Here the requirement is that stairs of any height have closed risers, not just those over 36".  Plus, they look a lot better when they are closed off.

Yes, the intent is to close off the openings on all risers.
Dumber than I appear
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#23
This is a set of stairs I saw today at an inspection. This is typically how vinyl fascia is installed. And also the risers are closed with the same 1x vinyl board.. This meets code. The stairs are bolted into the rim joist. Meets code. The treads are cut flush with the stringers and the fascia is left straight.

The metal straps you are using are not intended to be used as load bearing.

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#24
O.k., I know everyone is critiquing your construction methods so I won't go there (except that the stringers aren't supported enough at the top
Wink).
So to answer your question, yes; I would have skirt boards and risers installed before the treads and posts. So that leaves a few more questions. Are you planning to install risers? If so then the treads are too far back to install them because there will be no "nosing" or overhang. Snipe Hunter showed us a picture of "semi-enclosed" stringers. If that looks good that's the quickest.

Anyway the easiest way I've found to trim stringers with PVC is to use a 1/2" flush trimming bit in a hugh asss router before the stringers are even installed. The risers are then installed with 1/4" overhang on each side of the skirt. Next the treads and posts followed with post wraps and railings.

If you're not going to remove the treads I would make a template to trace. I do this when I need to fit skirt boards on top of existing treads and risers. I cut oversize triangles with Ram Board (It's like shoe-box cardboard) and trim one side of the triangles so they fit against the treads and risers, then staple it to my long straight edge. (I'm typically doing this on top of interior stairs, so it's a piece of 1/2" baseboard resting 1-1/2" above the noses. Yours will be on the bottom of the stringer.) Its really fast to scribe and cut cardboard. When I'm done, I lift the template and put it right back to make sure nothing moves and it fits correctly. Trace and cut.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#25
All these band-aid suggestions are boarding on dangerous. 


The best / only answer is to remove those stairs and start over.  Yes it's a pain and will cost $, but look at it as tuition instead of a waste.
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#26
(10-31-2022, 07:15 AM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: Fellas?

Building a deck for my BIL and we're almost to the point where we're going to apply the "fascia" around the joists/stringers.  Now, I realize I should have applied the stair fascia on before the railing and treads went on, but that's water under the bridge at this point.  

Short of taping on pieces of heavy paper/cardboard and then tracing it on the fascia material, how would you go about cutting the piece to cover the stair stringer?  thanks!

Remove the treads . Remove the stringers.   The treads should finish about 7/8" past the riser . . The stringers should have been cut for one more riser and fastened to the ledger. Add another 6-0 of stringer material so you can add the extra riser. 
Thru bolt and nail to inside of existing stringers.  Install risers ,then treads so the tread butts the riser, this gives you an overhang the thickness of the risers. You can lay out and cut the skirt now or after the stringers are installed. Treads are overhanging the stringers which is good. Risers should also overhang the same amount. Ideally the  treads and risers should overhang the skirt . The cut edge of the skirt will hidden this way.
 Install the stringers narrower to achieve this dimension if their is not enough overhang. 
This is more work than adding posts but will look correct. 
mike
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#27
To cut the fascia for the stair stringer, you can use a simple method involving a template. Cut a piece of cardboard or thin plywood to match the contour of the stair stringer. Then, transfer this template onto your fascia material and cut along the lines. This ensures a precise fit without the need for guesswork or complicated measurements. Another option is using a flexible contour gauge to trace the shape onto the fascia directly. Both methods provide accurate results and make the installation process much smoother. If you need further assistance, consider consulting professionals. I heard that the guys from iReno Eavestrough and Siding are reliable professionals. All the people I know who have used these guys' services are satisfied with their work.
Definition of coplaner: It's the guy on the outfeed side of a planer handing the stock back to the guy on the infeed side.
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#28
Deleted.. I think
Neil Summers Home Inspections




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... CLETUS











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