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DSMOG.
It is a builder grade throne but so what. When you adjusted the screw, you changed the direction of the closing force by a small angle and the piston is binding. The screw needs to be pushing exactly straight down at closed. To achieve that you may need to bend the rod. If the ball has taken on a bit of water it won't lift hard enough and the water level may shoot past. Change it for the Fluidmaster you ordered and be done.
I wonder how many thousands of float rods I've bent over the years.
Blackhat
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what he seems to be missing is the part where he says one way it closes the valve. From there the rod needs to be adjusted as the screw adjust is set to close properly. Then again he can do what he wants it's his money
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(12-28-2016, 09:25 AM)Robert Adams Wrote: That's obviously an old toilet.
It's not. The house is a year old.
(12-28-2016, 12:26 PM)blackhat Wrote: DSMOG.
It is a builder grade throne but so what. When you adjusted the screw, you changed the direction of the closing force by a small angle and the piston is binding.
It started doing this before I started messing with it. I only started the adjustments because it started to not shut off. I tried adjusting the screw, that didn't work. I set the screw back to where it had been set and tried bending the rod. That had same results as the screw - either bend it far enough so it doesn't leak but it doesn't flush all the way, or have it leak.
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Did they paint behind it when they built the house?
Steve
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WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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it looks like that after a year? I'm impressed. I would probably have gotten annoyed and put in a Am Standard by now. No need to be a slave to the sunk cost fallacy.
I think the idea of bending the rod has merit, if it works ok when the water is too low. Just bend the rod up so that the sweet spot gets triggered when the tank is more full. But that seems like a fix that wouldn't last. Whatever is making it so it doesn't shut off at the right position now would probably move to the new shutoff position
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Another thing is you could screw the bulb on more to shorten up the throw
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(12-28-2016, 05:55 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Did they paint behind it when they built the house?
Y'all disappointed me, that took longer than I thought. Yes, they painted behind it when they built the house.
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Their getting forgetful. I took care of it.
Steve
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12-29-2016, 12:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2016, 12:19 PM by TDKPE.)
(12-29-2016, 08:52 AM)fixtureman Wrote: Another thing is you could screw the bulb on more to shorten up the throw
And bend the rod so the float is flat to the lid when the water is supposed to shut off, then readjust the screw. It kind of sounds like it's hitting the underside of the lid, so it can't completely shut the supply off. Easy enough to check by letting it fill and not quite stop when adjusted for the water level the OP wants, then take the lid off and see if it stops
And make sure there's no water in that float.
The problem I have with the Fluidmaster fill valves is the bleed water into the overflow is too aggressive, and a clogged trap will cause a bowl overflow by the time it shuts off. The bowl fills and starts going over the high point in the trap, and keeps at that level for a while while the tank fills. That's too much water into the bowl, with much of it being wasted.
I redirected the hose out of the overflow tube in the one toilet that has one, and it fills the tank much faster, but the bowl level is pretty low. I may try adding a tee to that line, with the run portion going into the tank, and the stem into the overflow pipe. I'm reluctant to restrict the flow, though, as the backpressure may blow the hose off the valve.
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