|
What to use over boiled linseed oil
|
09-16-2018, 03:06 PM
I have a wine rack I'm building out of cherry. I'm thinking of boiled linseed oil, to make the cherry "pop". How would laquer be on top of the cherry? How durable?
Thanks! T.
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com 
09-17-2018, 05:33 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-17-2018, 05:56 AM by fredhargis.)
Lacquer will work fine over the top of BLO as long as it's cured somewhat before you apply it. But lacquer is not the most durable of finishes. I'm not sure how much wear/tear a wine rack would have, so it might be perfectly acceptable in that use.
PS, I'm guessing you refer to NC lacquer.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
09-18-2018, 06:13 AM
(09-17-2018, 05:33 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Lacquer will work fine over the top of BLO as long as it's cured somewhat before you apply it. But lacquer is not the most durable of finishes. I'm not sure how much wear/tear a wine rack would have, so it might be perfectly acceptable in that use. What would be your suggestion Fred? This is a Christmas gift doe daughter, that has cherry cabinets, darkened a bit, but natural grain showing. Thanks, T.
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com 
09-22-2018, 02:12 PM
(09-16-2018, 03:06 PM)Tony Z Wrote: I have a wine rack I'm building out of cherry. I'm thinking of boiled linseed oil, to make the cherry "pop". How would laquer be on top of the cherry? How durable? I think spar varnish is a good choice. It's durable, compatible with BLO, moisture resistant and pretty.
09-22-2018, 03:09 PM
Varnish would probably be my choice as well. Probably not a spar varnish, though it wouldn't matter in this application.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
09-23-2018, 10:32 AM
(09-22-2018, 03:09 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Varnish would probably be my choice as well. Probably not a spar varnish, though it wouldn't matter in this application. How about something like Waterlox?
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
09-23-2018, 10:48 AM
Waterlox Original is a varnish, and a very good one. Made with tung oil as the drying oil, it is much darker than most. It's also very durable. Just be aware it will take several (as in many) coats, since this is usually a little thinner than most other oil based varnishes. If you don't mind the dark color, it will be a great finish.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
09-24-2018, 08:13 PM
(09-23-2018, 10:48 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Waterlox Original is a varnish, and a very good one. Made with tung oil as the drying oil, it is much darker than most. It's also very durable. Just be aware it will take several (as in many) coats, since this is usually a little thinner than most other oil based varnishes. If you don't mind the dark color, it will be a great finish. Thanks Fred - advice much appreciated!
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
09-26-2018, 07:56 AM
(09-23-2018, 10:48 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Waterlox Original is a varnish, and a very good one. Made with tung oil as the drying oil, it is much darker than most. It's also very durable. Just be aware it will take several (as in many) coats, since this is usually a little thinner than most other oil based varnishes. If you don't mind the dark color, it will be a great finish. He could test the darkness on a sample and compare to the existing (darkened) cabinets, right?
"I never met a board I didn't like" -- CurlyCherry
"Another thing I don't understand people putting up with is punctuation. I'm glad you are taking a stand against this abomination." -- woodbrain 6/19/2008 
09-27-2018, 07:36 AM
BLO takes a LONG time to fully cure - several days to a week. I recommend just letting the BLO cure, with no top coat of any other finish. You'll end up with a satin finish. If you're after gloss, you'll need to let the BLO cure for at least a week - maybe more - and then lightly sand the surface with 320 grit prior to applying the lacquer.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill |
|
|
Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.
