Forgive me father, for I must sin. I need a...paint sprayer

[rschissler]

I am in the process of repainting all of my interior doors.  After 20 yrs of raising kids, they took a beating.  Using the same process, it takes about 15-20 minutes per door per coat, with the majority of that time used for setup and cleaning.  They turn out beautiful.  I'm painting them in my basement workshop.   You will get some over spray, so use drop clothes and have some sort of ventilation.  I built a make shift paint booth on my home built down draft table that I use to paint smaller pieces like cabinet doors, drawers, etc.

Thanks, I hoped you'd reply.  So you removed all the doors to repaint, that's interesting.  Are you still using the same TCP sprayer you recommended?

[Large Wooden Badger]

I bought the fuji spray semi pro 2 when I painted the kitchen cabinets.

I highly recommend it.

[Tony (Charleston WV)]

Brad:

Go here

[stilinsm]

Thanks, I hoped you'd reply.  So you removed all the doors to repaint, that's interesting.  Are you still using the same TCP sprayer you recommended?

Yeah.. Removing the doors and all hardware was just easier.  
Still using the same TCP sprayer.  It's been rock solid.  I've sprayed about a 1 1/2 gallon of BM Advanced through it with no issues.

[Snipe Hunter]

Yeah.. Removing the doors and all hardware was just easier.  
Still using the same TCP sprayer.  It's been rock solid.  I've sprayed about a 1 1/2 gallon of BM Advanced through it with no issues.

What gave you the idea to add washer fluid?

[stilinsm]

What gave you the idea to add washer fluid?

A lot of Google searching on spraying latex with a conversion gun.  I think the premise is that the washer fluid contains a percentage of alcohol that flashes off faster than just water.  it worked my first time with great results so I just stuck to it.

[Snipe Hunter]

A lot of Google searching on spraying latex with a conversion gun.  I think the premise is that the washer fluid contains a percentage of alcohol that flashes off faster than just water.  it worked my first time with great results so I just stuck to it.

Thanks, might be worth a try.

[MKepke]

Reading this thread with interest as I have several bookcases I need to paint.

I am going to give stilinsm's approach a shot with the 2.5mm conversion gun and the BM paint.

My sister is currently using the same BM paint and primer to (hand) paint her kitchen cabinets. Surface finish looks pretty good, even with the orange peel texture from using a roller.

-Mark

Mark, let us know how it turned out for you.

-Scott

Small update: I finally got around to this, although instead of the BM Advance I opted for the Insl-X Cabinet Coat, which is a urethane modified acrylic with a much faster drying time (1 hr tack free; recoat in 6 hrs). Same TCP Global conversion HVLP with the 2.5mm tip and ~40 psi static pressure at the inlet.

I'm putting the CabinetCoat over Zinsser Bullseye shellac primer.

I'll start a separate thread at some point.

-Mark

[Cooler]

I've read that oil based white paint will turn yellow over time.  A consideration.

PPG's Breakthrough! (an acrylic paint) dries quickly and the reviews are that it is entirely suitable for kitchen cabinets (and by extension, entertainment units).



I made my first attempt using this paint (and my first attempt using a HVLP sprayer) last weekend.  I probably need to thin it a bit more than I had as it was not atomized fully.  But the bigger problem is that it did not want to adhere to the SealCoat I had previously applied.

Instead it gave an antiqued cracked finish similar to this:



And it scraped off easily.  SealCoat has been my go-to primer.  It seemed to adhere to almost any substrate and all finished seemed to adhere to it.  PPG claims that no primer is required.  I only used it to prevent the water based paint from raising the grain.  I will sand off the finish (and the SealCoat) and try it again this weekend.  

Usually when I try something new I get a passably good result on the first try.  That being the product of extensive research and careful following of directions.

This time is was an absymal failure.  I don't have a viscosity cup (which is OK because I don't know what viscosity I need for this paint).  I might also have the wrong nozzle or cone or both.  It's going to be trial and error.  

The Breakthrough is amazingly thin, more like milk than sour cream.  It is even thinner than Rustoleum oil based paints.

I'm hoping the second time is a charm.  (I'm using a Sprayfine Stage4 HVLP sprayer).


http://www.turbineproducts.com/sprayfine...ay-system/