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(12-03-2020, 08:26 AM)Roly Wrote: Remember if your water pipe is part of your electrical grounding system place a jumper around the Sharkbite type of fittings as they don't guarantee continuity . Roly
Out here you have to jump across those connections or run straight to ground depending on what it is. Lots of #4 wire getting things handled
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women have trouble understanding Trump's MAGA theme because they had so little involvement in making America great the first time around.
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(12-06-2020, 01:14 AM)aquaticjim Wrote: Are you sure you used PVC? I was told by my local inspector that PVC can only be used for waste. Potable water requires CPVC.
Not sure why but Code allows PVC supply pipe from the utility to the main shut-off valve but none after that.
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(12-06-2020, 03:36 AM)Bob10 Wrote: Out here you have to jump across those connections or run straight to ground depending on what it is. Lots of #4 wire getting things handled
But you still need the entire metal piping system to be bonded. Assuming it’s metal, obviously.
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If I remember correctly, CPVC is required for both hot and cold water, PVC is only acceptable for cold...
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(12-07-2020, 04:42 AM)brianwelch Wrote: If I remember correctly, CPVC is required for both hot and cold water, PVC is only acceptable for cold...
True.
PVC and CPVC use for potable supply is generally governed by the authority having jurisdiction. CPVC is rated for max 200 deg while PVC is rated for max 140 deg. This includes ambient temps. Also, PVC degrades from UV and can cause toxicity in the water, CPVC isn't affected as much by UV. So usually CPVC is required for both hot and cold water... just in case. They don't want PVC in a hot wall near a radiator or near an oven or near a furnace or furnace flue or exposed to Daylight so they usually just approve PVC for the utility supply (underground) and low pressure waste pipes. Also the primer and cement are different between the two because of the different molecular make up of the two pipes. CPVC pipe and the cement used are more durable and last longer than PVC products. In reality, most county inspectors let it slide in non potable supply supply pipe like greenhouses, pool equipment etc but it really should be painted in those situations.
One of the very first houses I inspected had the basement remolded by the home owner. He moved all the well equipment from one side of the basement to the other and used all new PVC supply pipe and scraps of the old CPVC pipe and cemented the two together. Not supposed to do that. Not only did he drywall over the pipe, he drywalled over the edges of the main distribution panel cover (dead-front) so the panel door opened but you couldn't remove the cover.
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(12-02-2020, 11:50 PM)Bob10 Wrote: I had a friend have a water pressure reducing valve go bad in a tight space that was above ground and easy to see yet hard to access. I cut out the old one with a grinder to keep spacing the same and replaced with a shark bite probably 10 years back. No leaks yet, there was a 90 close to it so that is where the little play in the pipe to allow the rest to happen was found
Thanks, that is what I was looking for. I have to replace the valve, but am going to take the opportunity to install a whole house water filter at the same time. I had one before, but we had a massive back pressure (over 250psi, blew the gauge at that point) that cracked the filter. Had a plumber come in and he installed a pressure chamber and a reducing valve. I'm not sure what happened, but the Boro was doing some work on the lines, they swore that it had nothing to do with what they were doing, but the timing was just too coincidental.
Mike
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(12-03-2020, 07:32 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: Jurisdiction Having Authority (JHI) is the defining code in your Jurisdiction... Local code, not state, not national, not international.
While I use Shark Bites, sometimes just cutting out the old valve and installing a new one with repair couplings is easier. Sounds like your valve is soldered in, not threaded?
Yup. I have to cut it out, the remove the solder drip before I can install the new valve. It's not a major leak, just a drip from the handle, which is why I haven't done it yet. Last thing I want to do is cut the water while LOML is doing her holiday baking.
Mike
I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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12-11-2020, 10:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-11-2020, 10:33 PM by daddo.)
(12-06-2020, 01:14 AM)aquaticjim Wrote: Are you sure you used PVC? I was told by my local inspector that PVC can only be used for waste. Potable water requires CPVC.
From the meter to the house, just PVC. Under ground inside 2" pvc, it won't be bothered by UV. If that pvc ever becomes a problem, I'll pull the pipe and slide a new Pex pipe in it's stead- total job probably take an hour.
From that point on, the previous owners had used 3/4" PVC under the house to the main steel pipe distributor and that was over 30 years ago and it was still ok but I'm replaced it with CPVC to the main distribution manifold where I used Pex for the rest of the house. There is no UV light under the house to be concerned about- However, Pex is used in attics all the time and there are UV and UB and other light waves in the attic. These waves go right through the roof (Except metal) and after a time, I can see that being a problem. Unless the real damage is only done with direct sunlight.
I have pvc in the ground here to spigots that was put in in the 70's and it's still doing fine.
I would never use pvc or cpvc inside my house.
I'm pulling all the old steel water pipe out, re-running a section of gas pipe that was allowed to rub against a water pipe and disconnecting/removing all the gas outlets except for the stove, water heater and furnace.
The old 3/4" steel main to the house was almost corroded shut. Our water flow has increased nicely and the flow doesn't slow near as much when two sources are used like before.
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12-13-2020, 09:18 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-13-2020, 09:24 AM by Philip1231.)
Late to the party, again. Shark Bite connections are great, but for the main shut-off I'd feel a lot more confident with a compression fitting: I've been using these for years in applications where a sweat fitting is too cumbersome. Easy-peasy!
Oh, the code question: no idea for your specific jusisdiction, but it has passed inspections where I am in Connecticut.
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