Improvement to Auxiliary Dovetailing Bench

[Philip1231]

When I built the auxiliary dovetailing bench https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7370294, there was one aspect of it that I thought could be improved. Correct alignment of the tail and pin boards is critical when marking out the pins from the tails. I think most craftsman will hold the tail board in alignment by hand on top of the pin board which is held in the front vise. This approach certainly works, but with a dedicated dovetailing bench, I saw an opportunity to add something to aid in this alignment task. What I ended up with is two adjustable fences: one to set the pin board in vertical alignment and one to set the tail board in alignment with the pin board. I tried this arrangement out last week and it does the trick. And the hold down allows me to keep the parts aligned with ease as I mark the pins. It all worked beautifully as I dovetailed a drawer box for my current project. Side note: with the height of this bench, absolutely no strain on my back!

[barryvabeach]

Philip,  nice work.  I agree, getting the sides to line up exactly can sometimes be a pain, your mod addresses that well.

[Bill Holt]

Great ideas!!!  I don't have a dovetail bench, but you have given me two ideas to improve alignment next time I do dovetails.  I love WoodNet!!!

[Philip1231]

Thanks Gents! These fences also lend themselves to the Glen-Drake/Cosman/Others offset marking technique. A shim of appropriate size between the upper or lower fence offsets in either direction. Have not tried this yet, but I am planning on it.

[Aram]

Interesting design. What do you do when you need to align the boards on the right rather than the left? For instance, if the pin board is wider than the tail board and overhangs on one side.

[Philip1231]

Interesting design. What do you do when you need to align the boards on the right rather than the left? For instance, if the pin board is wider than the tail board and overhangs on one side.

Aram: I have never encountered that situation, but if it does come up, the fences are easily removed: 2 machine screws hold each fence in place. Phil

[Mike Brady]

Aram: I have never encountered that situation, but if it does come up, the fences are easily removed: 2 machine screws hold each fence in place. Phil

I have to add that your workmanship and photography are superb.

[Philip1231]

I have to add that your workmanship and photography are superb.

Mike: Thanks! A secret: my photography is so good that it looks like I am displaying superb workmanship! Phil

[rwe2156]

I put vertical marks on the inside face of the vise and just use a square to line up the horizontal part. Can't see the need for something fastened to the bench, but I suppose it would be quicker if you had a bunch to do.

[Philip1231]

I put vertical marks on the inside face of the vise and just use a square to line up the horizontal part.  Can't see the need for something fastened to the bench, but I suppose it would be quicker if you had a bunch to do.

Many ways to skin the cat. This auxiliary bench was purpose built for dovetails and adding these fences gives me a higher probability of getting the alignment of the pin/tail boards precisely dialed in, every time, with less fuss (love the less fuss part). As I mentioned, this modification makes the offset marking techniques of Glen Drake, et. al. pretty straight forward. When I make something like a drawer box with dovetail joints at each corner, I want it to sit perfectly flat on my bench when assembled (not to mention perfectly square). You don't have to be very far off at the marking stage to end up with significant errors at the assembly stage. This mod gets me a little closer to perfection at first assembly. Keep in mind, none of this is needed: but it's an adjunct to the dovetail process that has worked for me, and perhaps, it might work for others.