I have two different sized Gerstner Tool Chests, both missing the front panel that holds in the drawers for transportation, and folds under when in use.  Neither is these chests will be overly valuable when done.  One was vinyl covered (needs new covering) the second was also missing a drawer.  Point is I don't want to spend "big bucks" on locks.  Gerstner has original ones for $75.00, which is too rich for me.

The front panels are 1/2" thick, and there isn't much room behind them.  I am looking for lower cost locks "similar" to the one pictured.  (that is not a Gerstner).  It should be kind of a dead bolt style that mortises into the panel.  I've looked on Amazon, and Van Dykes, and haven't found the right one.  I only need close, not perfect.
Got any ideas?  Maybe a sliding latch?

Thanks

   

   

   

Some years ago I switched from a Delta Unisaw to a SawStop Professional saw, and have never regretted making ti (expensive) switch. Love the SawStop. I've tripped the brake about three times. Cost of a new blade and a cartridge about $150, but that amount wouldn't even get you past the front desk at the emergency ward. 
Yesterday when ripping a short length of walnut, the saw decided to lower the blade below the table, without cutting power to the blade. Retrieved the piece I'd been ripping, tried to complete the cut, and had the same problem. Then I tried just turning on power but not running any material into the blade, and the blade slowly lowered itself below the table. Tried to raise it with the elevation whee., and the control refused to raise.  Lowered the control and then raised it and it brought the blade back up to full height. Tried it again, same thing. It took the blade about 30 to 40 seconds to lower beneath the table top. I then submitted a problem report to Saw Stop, and received a reply that they'd get back to me as soon as they could. Waiting for a reply, just for grins I decided to remove the cartridge and then reseat it. Sure enough, quick no-cost fix, let the bsaw running for several minutes, and it remained at its set height.  Forr a test I ran a 4 foot length of particle board through the saw, making half a dozen cuts, and the blade remained at the set height  I repplied to SawStop's response to my initial report, describing what I'd done, letting them know the case number could now be closed.  And now I know what to try if I ever encounter this problem again.

My wife has been on me to do something about the finish on our kitchen cabinets. Overall they are in pretty good shape but a couple of drawers and doors have some wear and tear on them. I would prefer to touch up the worn places instead of doing a total refinish but matching finish colors isn't one of my strongpoints. 

I figure I can get one of the drawers, probably the one in the picture below since it's the worst, and see if I can match the color adequately. If not, then I guess a total refinish would be in order.

Anyone have any thoughts or experience doing this?

TIA!

   

   

Hi,

I built the Martin House a few years ago.  Well....I should call it the sparrows, wrens and chickadees house.  Nary a martin in site.  Oh well.


But I also looked out this AM and saw a squirrel....bastages!!....go in 1 of the holes.  How would you prevent this?


I was thinking about looking around for SS washers that have an ID that'll fit the birds, but not the rats that can get through.  McMasterCarr maybe?? (of course I'll check the Cornell School of Ornithology to get the correct ID beforehand).  Since the individual doors are curved somewhat, do they make large size washers that are slightly curved?


Anyone else built it?  If so, how are you keeping the bastages out??



(It does look much better in real life...the snap of a .jpg file seems to wash out some of the colors)

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this one is in the upstairs bathroom.  Combination tube and shower so has a diverter.  When you try to divert water to the shower, the valve is only half closing, so water still comes out the tub spout. I think the valve needs to ber replaced.  I tried calling Kohler twice, there was a 15 minute hold both times.  I have a vague memory of replacing o rings or something in in this shower a few years ago.    So, replace just the valve or replace the entire valve body, fixture, etc?  If I replace everything I assume I will have to go in through the wall on the other side again?

I posted this design quite a while ago (probably more than a year ago) and got a lot of good advice that I implemented.  I am now finally in the process of building it.  I am wondering what would be the best mechanism for joining the head board and foot board panel assemblies to the legs/posts.  

I built John Teneyck's horizontal router mortiser and am thinking that loose tenons is my best option, but wondering if I am overlooking something that might be better. 

The wood is cherry.  The legs/posts are 3/4" boards glued into a 3 1/2" square using a lock miter bit.  I have machined the leg/post boards but have not glued them up yet so I can still add something to the inside of the post if needed (like maybe a threaded insert or something). 

I do not own a Domino.

If I did loose tenons would 1/4" (easiest) be enough or should I go 3/8" (requires an additional set up step and extra pass or buy a new 3/8" bit).  Also would you only put loose tenons in the top and bottom rail, or would you put a couple in the outside stiles of the panel assembly?

How would you attach the panel assembly to the posts?  Thanks in advance for the advice.

   

   

edited with new picture for clarification

Have a 24 yr old Burnham oil fired boiler. Last week it decided to stop working.  My “go to guy” (he is the go to guy in this county) discovered a bad slider joint on the backside of the circuit board which had opened the neutral. We soldered a jumper wire on the circuit board and got the furnace running. This same thing had happened about 8 years ago discovered & fixed it the same way. Eventually replacing the original board when we got a replacement (current board now)
My problem is the T&P valve is leaking. He got a 30 PSI relief valve to me and I replaced the old one. It leaks, since I noticed the PSI on the furnace going above 30psi. Think before hand it ran around 20+psi, Temp is 170 F. 

I would call him , but tomorrow he has shoulder surgery, last Thursday his mother passed away with funeral last Monday. He got me the relief valve Monday night. Just not going to bother him— small rural town where everyone helps everyone. Wife and I spent most of day helping serve luncheon at her funeral.

Need some ideas as to what to do. 

Thanks for any help.
 Don C.

Here's an osage orange and bird's eye maple carving mallet I made for my brother

It's about 3 1/4" in dia at the head, 1 1/4" dia at the handle, 10" long and weighs about 24 oz.

The shape is based on a mallet shown in Wood magazine from about 10 or 15 years ago. When I made my first one, I made a paper template and bonded it to some hardboard. I must have turned 8 of these so far out of various woods.


For this one I had a nice chunk of Osage that wasn't quite long enough. So I searched through my turning stock and found a suitable piece of birds eye maple. After I roughed them to a cylinder, I turned a 1" dia x about 3" long  tenon on the handle and drilled a corresponding hole in the head. Then I epoxied them together. After the glue dried I turned it to the final shape and then added my name and date to the handle with my woodburning pen.


The finish is several coats of TruOil gun stock finish. When the finish cured, I buffed the entire mallet to give it a nice glow.

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https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/zip/d/s...69732.html

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/o...40374.html