Dear Woodnetter,

a new first saw: A fret saw based on the gents saw and a bought depth stop:
Sawing on the pull stroke (customer wish)

The greek luthier had a special need for this saw, becaus he uses frets with a thin line. The usual fret saw leaves 0.56mm cerve. this on leaves a 0,45 thick cerve.

Cheers
Pedder

One of my winter projects will be to build two saddle-seat counter-height stools, sorta like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Clas...9650&psc=1

Our counters are 36" high so I am thinking +/-28" height, seat dimensions 12"X16", splayed legs to maybe 14"X18".  I have a ton of 5/4 prime straight-grained walnut that will be used, and I want to avoid the battleship-type construction used in most of my projects over 50+ years (no linebackers will ever sit on these!).  M&T joints for stretchers and footrests.  Maybe a 1/2" "saddle depth" across the width. Finish likely just Danish oil. Questions:

1) How would you fashion the "saddle"  for this?  My plan is to bandsaw out the general outline and then chisel/scrape/sand to finish-ready.  I do not have any of the large-scale carving/shaping tools like a scorp but have a foam-pad PC ROS, a 6X48 belt sander, and a bench spindle sander.  One thought is to make a sanding block from one of the bandsaw cutouts.

2) Would you taper the legs, likely to be about 1"X2" finish dimension?

Any other ideas or comments? TIA.

Gary

It has been over a year since I have been able to work in my shop and am now finally able to.  I pushed the ON switch to my Unisaw, it powered up for maybe 1/10 of a second, and stopped.  I then bypassed the switch and connected the motor wires to the power wires, and plugged it in.  As soon as I did that, I got a spark from the plug, a little smoke, and the plug got really hot!  

My neighbor helped me remove the motor and we visually inspected the capacitors, and there was nothing visible that led us to think they were faulty.  

Is there any way to determine if they are faulty, or is there anything else I could/should do to keep from having to drop $1000 on a new motor?


Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


Sheri

After years of using a roller stand for outfeed support, I decided to go to a table instead. I wanted something that was attached to the saw but was also portable (saw is on casters.) Drew up a sketch and took it down to a friend who owns a local cabinet shop; he made the top. Two pieces of 3/4" MDF sandwiched together with a laminate top surface. Rubber banding on the edge. He also cut the slots for the miter gauge blade.

Bought the leg and hinge kit from Rockler (hinges not shown in the photo.) Legs are adjustable vertically and swing up and lock in place under the table when table is retracted.

   
   
In this photo, you can see where the hinges are attached to the rail with two sets of bolts, left and right. There was only one hole drilled in each location; second hole (one on the left on each side) had to be drilled.
   
Had to mill an extra slot in each hinge bracket for the second bolt. Bridgeport did the job nicely.
   

One of Murphy's Laws seems to always creep in. This time it was "everything takes longer than you think." Overall, pleased with the result.

Doug

I really like the digital readout by Wiley for my Sawstop
Makes repeat cuts very reliable.

I am running through battery’s fairly quickly forgetting to turn it off.

Is there a way to set it to turn off after a set period of time?



Duke

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/zip/d/f...75513.html


[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]Used Shopsmith works but is taking up storage space. Put it to use, comes with a few attachments[/font]

Catalogs for sale, original and reprint. Part of 30 years of tool and catalog collecting.  There are about 1500 total pages of catalog in this group of catalogs.   $75.00 +book rate shipping.  Message me with questions.  

Thanks, George

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Making a bread bowl to match my charcuterie board from Black Walnut and Alumilite Slow Clear resin

Just to learn how, I decided to try threading on my 3 axis CNC. VCarve Pro has a toolpath for doing that, so why not? First, however, you need to have a threading bit. I bought this one:




It wasn't clear at first how to mill the threads so that the tip diameter of one thread would mesh with the root diameter of the other, allowing some slop factor. I think that would work had I milled the threads to give a land on them, like an acme thread, but I made V-shaped threads and for that to mesh I had to make the male thread one thread depth larger before cutting the thread. I'm going to cut some threads with lands on them to see if the logic is more straight forward. In any case, I was successful and the threads mate very smoothly.



The box is about 4" OD, with a UTS 1" thread I had to make the lid as two pieces, otherwise the threading bit won't cut deep enough. The thread wasn't cut quite completely on the threaded section, so it wouldn't fit down tight to the base, so I added the O-ring to take up the slack. Still learning.






Normally, the lid has a female thread and fits over the male thread of the box. To do that, however, a back cut needs to be made below the thread for clearance, again because the shape of the tool doesn't allow it thread to the bottom of the recess. I managed to figure that out, too, but I need a narrow T-shaped bit before making more.

And that kept my brain engaged for a couple of days.

John

I picked up a couple woodworking vices at an estate sale this summer.  Finally getting around to installing them.  Previously I've used 3/4" "pine" to line the jaws.  Do you use something like this or something harder, and is 3/4" a good thickness?  By the way, my vice does occasionally get use for things that aren't woodworking.

Got any thoughts?