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  Vacuum Pump
Posted by: Bill Holt - 03-14-2024, 07:39 PM - Forum: Woodturning - Replies (2)

I think I am interested in a vacuum pump for my Powermatic lathe.

I know of the advantages and that's about it.  Oh, and continuous run pumps are better.  Where do I get good information?  Obviously building your own saves $$$.  Do the pumps with the "vacuum pots" work for lathes?  As you can see, I have lots of questions.

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  Laying tile
Posted by: EatenByLimestone - 03-14-2024, 06:53 PM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (15)

The house is getting resided. Project creep necessitated that the 42” wide by 30” deep entry be redone too. After I broke out the 3” of concrete (I thought it was only going to be 1/2”! I kept moving up in hammer size.) I put in 3/4” ply down to level and then the 1st layer of Hardybacker.

I noticed that the floor tips back toward the house ever so slightly when we got a hard rain last week. I’d like to correct that before covering everything up and forgetting about it until something exciting happens.

Gutters will soon be installed and that will effectively increase the overhang by 5-6” so it might not be an issue, but water being pushed back at the house is bad practice.

I will be laying another layer of Hardie down to cover a piece of trim I forgot about when I put the first layer down. Should I fix the slope with some thin set before I put the new Hardie down, or should I put the Hardie directly down on the old one, then add more thin set (thicker in back, thinner in front) under the tiles themselves?

All my previous tile work has been inside and I didn’t care if there was a little pitch to the tiles.

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  FS: Delta 14” Drill Press Parts
Posted by: Rick_B - 03-14-2024, 03:16 PM - Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell - Replies (2)

I ended up with a DP 220 Delta drill press head (serial # 17-9362 year 1942) with a broken spindle pulley, no motor (I robbed it for another press), no depth stop and it didn’t fit the column I had. So a decision has been made to part it out. All prices are before shipping - most of the items are pretty small/light so shipping should not be outrageous. Some of the items are logical groups of parts that I would like to sell as one unit (an example is the motor mounting plate and hardware) - however let me no if you are interested in individual Items (for example the motor mounting plate hardware). If things are not selling in a few weeks I would be inclined ton split them up.

Due to inexperience I may be out of line on pricing for some items so - ALL PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE – I am motivated to not put the items back on a shelf. Of course, bigger discounts for multiple items. I can also assist with delivery within a reasonable distance of Winston Salem, NC

Picture 1
A - Motor mounting plate and hardware - $12

Picture 2
B – Safety Collar - $15 SOLD
C – Head Lock - $15  SOLD
D - Quill Lock - $5
E – Switch on Head - $10
F – Slow Speed Pulley Bearing Retainer Plate and Screws - $5
G – Slow speed Spindle Pulley Sleeve and Cover - $25

Picture 3
J – Quill/Bearing Retainer Nuts/ Upper Spindle collar - $50

Picture 4
H – Pinion/Handle/Thumb Screw/Return Spring - $25

Picture 5
K – Spindle with Jacobs 6A 33 Taper Chuck (can’t get chuck off spindle – try your luck) - $30

Picture 6
L – WT Return Spring – Pinion hole on spring broke – case is good) - $5
M – Delta Return Spring – pinion end of spring bent – case is good - $5

I also have the head, table, table bracket, base and column (have not got the column out of the base yet) – didn’t think there would be much interest but let me know if you have a desire for them.

Thanks for looking
Rick

   

   

   

   

   

   

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  Woops
Posted by: davco - 03-14-2024, 10:51 AM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (10)

Need help correcting a goof

I cut 4 narrow dado grooves to receive the Rocker sliding door track. Unfortunately I now have the entire cabinet assembled and glued up and the dados are too narrow. I can't really fit a router in there to widen them, plus I'm concerned I might damage the whole piece using power tools at this point. I tried a flat file but it didn't remove much material at all. I'm considering the very tedious process of using a dremel.

Thsnks, any ideas to make this process less tedious.are welcome. And yes I know this was dumb I should have measured the grooves with a caliper.

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  FS: Delta 1028/1029 Multi-Speed Attachment
Posted by: Rick_B - 03-13-2024, 12:37 PM - Forum: Tool Swap N' Sell - Replies (6)

This somewhat rare Delta attachment will increase the available speeds on your DP220 14” drill press from 4 to 12. I removed it from a 1942 vintage Delta 14” drill press. It will fit most machines with a 2-3/4” column. The machine it was removed from had the high speed spindle pulley – if you have the slow speed pulley you will need to get a different front belt than those included. All parts are present and accounted for and have been cleaned and, where appropriate, painted. No dings or breaks. The special 88106 bearing turns smoothly – replacements are available if necessary.


I am looking to get $225 shipped to lower 48 however everything is negotiable so feel free to make an offer. Feel free to ask for additional pictures.

Sorry for the confusion = I deleted the original photos and added the correct assembly of the unit.  You can see the column plug is now oriented correctly

Thanks for Looking
Rick
[attachment=50234]

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  Slab flattening router bit?
Posted by: goaliedad - 03-12-2024, 11:20 AM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools - Replies (6)

I have a few ash slabs I want to flatten. I will be making a jig and use my Porter Cable router. What bit should I be looking at?
These slabs are 4 or 5 feet long, 16 inches wide. I have four to do. I am not looking to mortgage my house for a bit, and will not be doing production volume.

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  Help ID saw
Posted by: ajkoontz - 03-11-2024, 04:58 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools - Replies (8)

Any idea what this saw is used for? Got it in an auction lot and not sure what the purpose is. The blade is slightly higher than the bed, very much like a jamb saw but I've never run into something quite like this.


   

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  Home made plane better than Stanley
Posted by: Bencuri - 03-11-2024, 04:46 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools - Replies (3)

Well, the title may sound clickbait, but it is true, LOL

Anyway, seriously speaking: this is a technique I learnt here many years ago and I was amazed it works so well. So the basic problem:

   

This is how a normal Stanley smoother cuts the kiln dried black locust: this wood has often grain direction changes in it, kiln drying makes it brittle, and even if you set the plane to extra fine cut, it does create tear out. Though they are very shallow, and much more tolerable than with a normally set plane, in case of which you could see massive holes where you can see those light white spots now. However this outcome is not very good for high grade work.

And now comes my plane. I have made one like this many years ago, but it got lost. Credits for the idea go to Norsewoodsmith, whose planemaking articles inspired me to make one. And the technology comes from your comments here from the same period: some here suggested a 60 degree smoother can solve this issue. The interesting is: it does not only make a nicer surface, but something that is very odd: even back than and now these planes that I made myself cut much better than any plane I owned. Blade gets cutting easier, doesn't tend to jump that much on grain direction changes, easier to push, it is pulling itself into the cut. I don't know why that is, but all in all I am amazed how well these home made ones can work, and indeed you can see the 60 degree of blade angle works:

   

And interestingly it was done with a thicker shaving and large mouth opening than in case of the Stanley smoother. I made a mistake though because I should have create a smaller mouth opening, but it works even like that as it is now, however this way you must be extremely careful not to push the plane too fast because then it will tear the wood out, too. But if you push carefully, it does a nice job even with the oddly large opening. And no chipbreaker!

Here is this toy anyway:

   

Horn hand carved!

If you are interested in how I made it, I will upload an article about it soon to my website. If the admins allow it, I will post the link here. So check back if interested. 

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  Aniline Dye and Glue
Posted by: lift mechanic - 03-11-2024, 02:44 PM - Forum: Finishing - Replies (4)

I have all the parts cut to size for 8 dining room chairs. Last time I used water-soluble aniline dye, I had trouble with over lap lines. With the Mission style chairs this will be more of a problem. Has anyone tried to dye all the pieces before assembly. All joints are loose tenon in QSWO using Titebond III. I would think the dye being water base it would not affect the glued joint.

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  Whirlpool In Door Ice Maker
Posted by: DieselDennis - 03-11-2024, 12:09 PM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (4)

Anyone want to commiserate with me on an ice maker issue?

Whirlpool side by side.  Probably a 2013 model.  Good fridge.  Still keeps everything nice & cold.  

Noticed Saturday the ice bin was empty.  Some disassembly and found that the icemaker is not getting power (at L & N in the icemaker. If you've been in ice makers, ykwim).  Went down to the bottom of the unit to see if any wires were broke where the door swings.  Wires looked fine.  Unplugged the wires at the bottom of the freezer.  No power at the plug either.  

Unplugged the fridge to do a reset.  Waited a minute and plugged it back in.  The ice maker cycled (dumped ice, refilled with water) and after about a minute, lost power again.  

Took a peek at the main control board.  Nothing obvious there.  And have I mentioned the fridge is running fine?  

New control board is $650.  Anyone ever ran into an issue like this before?  Anyone have any experience with these online "talk with a tech" services that will answer questions and walk you though a problem?  

Right now my main question is does the power to the ice maker come straight from the main control board or is there some kind of electrical widget in between?  And if it does come from the main control board, why is the main control board cutting power to the ice maker after a minute?  I need help going through the logic of sending power to the ice maker.  

I suppose I need to keep disassembling and test if the level sensor is good.  The model basically has a photo eye that shoots across the ice bucket.  If the beam is broken, then the bin is full, and that cuts off the icemaker.

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