Unfortunately the only finish hat you can definitively identify is shellac. Put a few drops of alcohol¹ some where inconspicuous, if after 15 minutes the finish softens then it is shellac. The other tests for lacquer and waterborne finishes are o longer valid. Today lacquer thinner is mostly acetone and that will damage many finishes including varnish (but not conversion) and some waterborne finishes. There are several waterborne which are not affected by acetone (see the Thread in this form for John's recent tests). Waterborne used to be polyurethane or acrylic but now can be pretty much anything including: polyester, epoxy, conversion varnish etc.

¹ No need to go buy DNA to test for shellac, any alcohol will work—vodka, rum, tequila… just so long as it's at least 100 proof.

Thanks again John,

For kitchen table tops, this is the one that I think about the most. Abrasion is important, but I'm not sure anything is going to resist scratches if someone drags a cast iron pot across the table or pokes a fudge into it. But hot cups happen daily.

Thanks also for turning me on to Arm-R-Seal. My go to finish for virtually every indoor horizontal surface. And some vertical ones as well.

Steve

Another informative and useful test, John. I don't remember seeing anyone attempt an abrasion test. Thanks!

I'm going to be going out to Portland and Seattle on the 19th and I'm wondering if there are any good spots fro rust hunting out that way. Anyone got any spots they'd like to share?

Thanks,

I enjoyed that tour!

are there 4 of them, or just the one? I'm no expert, but I've never seen such a thing.

Interesting find! Does it have 37 pieces of flair?

Very nice.

My whole table wobbles and flexes.
I could go on.

Can't see an issue with the gears----the very first thing I'd check is for wood scraps binding in the arbor unit (which rises with the blade). The next thing is check for looseness or proper alignment of the screws holding the shaft in position for the wheel to adjust height.