Do you install the Wonderboard smooth side or rough side out when using Redgard? I will be using a modified thin set mortar in this application.
I made the mistake of Googling and it’s 50/50 with nothing definite.
You’d think that would be settled by now. 
What I’ve seen was use the smooth side for mastic and the rough side for mortar, but those listings don’t mention Redgard.

Uggggg..

Anyone here have an opinion?

Ben Strano of Fine Woodworking Magazine just posted a tour of his home shop on YouTube.  His shop isn't fancy (neither is mine) but he says it has everything he needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3wD9Jos81w&t=31s

I posted this a few months ago with 'we can talk about price'... now I'm posting it as 'come get it out of my way'.  As in free.  I'll even help you take it apart.

It needs a new arbor shaft assembly (and needs it before cutting anything).  I have two Xacta fences, one with the micro adjust.  It's seen a lot is use and isn't pretty... but the price is hard to beat. 

I'm in Seguin, TX.  PM me.

Edited to add that I forgot to mention the Shop Fox mobile base (saw only base only).

I have a 1950's vintage 10" Craftsman table saw that won't tilt beyond 30*. I'm the third owner of this saw and have never torn it apart.  I wanted to make a French cleat with a 45* cut,  Won't go past 30*.  Am I correct in guessing I have an accumulation of all those years stopping the movement past 30*? Or is there some other issue I should be looking for?  Buying a new table saw is out of the question at my age.  But I would like to get this one to cut a 45* cut.

This is a very unique and uncommon saw...it has two cutting edges...one looks to be about 15PPI and the other about 9PPI.The blade is 11 1/2" in length.The handle swings into the correct sawing position and locks with a wing nut..IOW it locks in three positions. Either blade is sharp enough to "catch the skin" on your fingers and it is straight. It is about 30thou in thickness.. The handle appears to be apple wood and it is in good condition..The dark line that can be seen in a photo is just the grain of the wood..not a crack. The saw can be put back in service for tenons or dovetails, or hung on the wall of your shop as part of your collection, because not many woodworkers will have seen a #80...Offering it here on the forum first for $65.00 including shipping to the USA only...Paypal only...Thanks for looking...

PS..I am also showing a photo out of another collection because you can read the etch on it...






.............................
The lower photo is one from another collection

2 days of yard/garage sales.....had only $12 in my pocket for a "budget".

Friday morning....stopped at the first one that said it had...TOOLS....and spent...$2

   
A quarter a piece....square is a Stanley No. 20  8",  C clamps were the 2" size.  
Bit of a drive out to the next sale.....there was a large plastic tray laying on the ground.....didn't need any 12" long screwdrivers...and other such things...but, got to digging around UNDER those big tools....

   
Price for the entire tray full (and the tray) $5....price for these two items together?   $1    Yes, I rattle all hollow handled tools.....

   
lets see, one bit in the chuck, plus 6 in the handle....North Bros. (pre-Stanley) No. 41....might clean up decent enough to use..

other sales?   some were Saturday only....others were mainly clothes and such things....meh...called it a day.

Saturday.....went back to that first Friday sale,  seeing what was left....hand saw kept tugging at me....could not set it back down..

   
Well, for that price....I guess it can come along.

More sales, no tools....heard a nearby village was having a village wide sales event....drove up there.....more with just clothes, pots & pans....was about to give up...remembered there was an Ice Cream place in the town....decided to stop in ( was a hot, muggy day..) almost ready to park there...nose went on alert!    Parked and went to look over a couple tables filled with tools, and a trailer, to boot.....$2 a pc on the pipe clamps?  Hmmm....dug through a box...saw a few chisels...some I didn't even bother to turn over ( think Handyman..), but there were 3 that looked decent enough....dug around, looking for the "4th" one of the set....oh well....looked over the pipe clamps, picked out the best of the 4..."how much? "  "$3"  handed the man the 3 dollar bills, and headed over for the Ice Cream....then back home..
Chisels?
   
Was missing the 12mm one.   Made in England...
Pipe clamp...?
   
1/2" Pony...with about 3' of pipe...
   
That handsaw?    1955 Disston D-8, 26" long, 10ppi cross cut....nothing missing ( like teeth) nothing bent, nor kinked, nothing broken or cracked...
   
And that was about it, for the two day sales....total?  $6.50...not counting the $5 for Ice Cream...


Not too bad?


May post when I have all of these "treasures" cleaned up...

I've been thinking about building a roll around one with the grinder on top and somehow have an area for the wet stones,etc.

What doe some of you have in the line of a station?

Thanks

Jim

Just wondering how you cut out the pins and tales. After using my DT saw with the pieces clamped in the face vise on my workbench I place the parts onto the bench with MDF under them so not to dig into the bench and clamp it to the bench.

What technique do you folks use to cut the pins & tails?

Jim

I have been struggling with a garage door that would open about a foot then stop. I thought it was the garage door opener and have tightened the very loose chain. I also lubed all the hinges on the door. This morning when I opened the door I noticed door shock at the point where it stopped. I investigated some more and notice something black squeezing out from between the panels of the door in the inside. The black stuff looks and feels like decomposed weather stripping. It is rubbery and sticky. I think when the door is down for a period of time this sticky stiff is holding the panels together and the shaking happens as the top panel breaks loose. What could this be? Because it is sticky it doesn't want to clean out well and it appears some is stuck to the upper panel at each joint. Do they actually put weather stripping between the panels? Any ideas how to clean it up with out dismantling the whole door?

Finished up my Greene and Greene inspired dartboard cabinet. Case is rounded box joints with purpleheart plugs. Doors are bridle joints with purpleheart pins.

It was my first attempt at using bridle joints for the doors.

My first set of door handles were too much for the piece. It was walnut, mahoghany and purple heart. I ended up going with a simpler door handle in keeping with the style.

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