Hello All,

I need to repair my gutter. There is about a 5' section of duct that tore away and I don't think I will be able to re-use it. The piece is similar to  this one at Lowes:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Amerimax-120-in...ut/1101827

Please take a look at the picture below. The red arrow on the left should not be a problem as all I need is sheet metal screws to connect the gutter to the connector. The arrow on the right is a bit tricker. What you see on the right is the actual gutter. I would think I need some type of connector piece, right? The green arrow is showing you where the piece will be installed.

Thanks, Bill

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I'm in the market for an air hose reel for my wood shop. Presently the only tools I run on air are small nailers, or an air gun. I have a couple of compressors, but usually use a small pancake compressor in the shop. 30' of hose would get me anywhere I need to go. I'm just tired of dragging and coiling air hose. I don't really think my use warrants the $500 models, but I don't want to buy junk either. Anyone have a reel they can recommend? Thanks!

So I manage to make some things .. working on a grill table for my Kamado grill .. but you know that sometimes gets you into to trouble. 

My wife picked up an old Singer treadle sewing machine .. she got it stripped down to the metal frame .. on her way to a new table. She found a place in town that cuts down trees .. then turns them into lumber .. tree recycling right? Anyway she found a great deal on a slab of white oak that was just the right size .. so 4 deck screws and I'm done making her a table .. well .. you know thats not really it right?.

She wants this thing finished and I'm looking for somebody who has done something like this before for ideas. It's white oak .. couple inches thick .. nice grain .. it has a live edge (bark) on one side and it's got some small knots and surface cracks. Seems I've read that the best thing is to fill any of those with ... something? Shes looking for a natural finish .. not looking for a stain .. so the guy at this place suggested tung oil .. or maybe shellac .. so ..

Who's worked on something like this before .. I think this thing could end up pretty nice .. I'm good at following directions so let me hear your ideas ...

I am looking for a few what I call, "flip-up" bench dogs. They have teeth like Miller Falls but lie flat, screwed into a recess. there is no dog hole. Push down on the back end and the teeth flip up about 3/8".
Bill

Looking for a good user wooden fore/jack plane. Anybody have one they would be willing to sell?
Thx!
Eli

Brand new in the unopened box.  This kit currently sells for around $190 on Amazon.  $150 shipped to CONUS.

Thank you.


           

I need to break down an 8-foot 2x4 into 12" lengths. I would like to do it on my table saw with a sliding table and the stops set at 12"

To do so, I would have to remove the rip fence and feed the stock from the right, using a helper support the stock as it slides through the blade. 

Is this a viable option or is it unsafe?

Should I use my chop saw instead?

Thanks in advance,

 - Ray

Hey guys. I have a SawStop 10" 40 teeth carbide tipped combination blade new in warpper that came with my saw that I don't need. 5/8" arbor, .118 inch kerf. They retail for $39. I'll sell it for $30 plus shipping via USPS Priority mail.

Bergie

Tormek SiperGrind 2000 with the following jigs and accessories:
1. SVH-60 straight edge jig
2. SVH-320 planer/jointer jig
3. SVS-32 short tool jig
4. SVM knife jig
5. AVD-50D diamond truing tool
6. SP-650 stone grader
7. LA-100 profile leather honing wheel
8. MH-380 machine cover
9. SVD-110 tool rest
10. An extra universal support with the threaded adjustment
11. WM-200 pro anglemaster
12. Honing compound and misc maintenance chemicals
13. Torgny Jansson edition 8 book- Water cooled grinding and sharpening of edge tools (147 page hard cover that gives detailed instructions on how to use the Tormek and all Tormek jigs)
The grinding wheel is almost new at about 245 mm. After getting proficient at using diamond stones I find I do not use this enough to justify the space it occupies in my workshop. I could provide pictures and an approximate weight upon request. I honestly do not know what this is worth and do know I will never get close to what I paid for it years ago. I will entertain reasonable offers- price plus actual shipping cost- via a carrier of your choince.

Hello,

I have an outdoor sign made of cherry that was given several coats of epifane marine finish years ago.  The finish has started to peel in a few spots, mainly on the end grain and it has had some water damage because of it (see attached photo).  The wood is not rotting, it is just discolored (blackened).  I used a scraper in a small area and was able to easily scrape the wood back to its natural color.

90% of the sign has acceptable wear with its age.  I REALLY don't want to refinish the whole thing.  My question is how you would handle the situation.  I want to get the bare cherry color back and refinish the area and mainly keep the area from getting worse.  Would you handle this like a water stain situation?  Sand back the finish slightly and refinish.  Because of the spot on the sign, I'm not really able to cut back the wood to a new length.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks

Angelo