I've have a Delta combo 6 inch belt / 9 inch disc sander. What is the general opinion on what grit paper to keep on disc for general use?

80 or 120 grit are the two I'm thinking would be best for general use. (For what it's worth, I keep 120 grit paper on the belt.)

Also, mine uses self adhesive sandpaper. Has anyone upgraded to hook and loop? Sure would be easier than stripping the old paper off with a heat gun and having to clean the plate every single time.

Hey, folks. Hope everyone is staying safe in your shops and wearing your masks (against dust and other baddies).

I think I've had two more new shops since I posted much last in recent years. Now that I'm settled in what I think is my best shop yet (and its smaller than the last!), I think I'll be posting more.

Anyway, I'm reworking my dust collection and upgrading to a Super Dust Deputy. I have all the parts to convert my current Delta single-stage machine.
In the process of reworking the pipe, I'd like to add a central cleanup connection (4") which I can use to connect a hose and attachment for general cleanup.

I think the Rockler "quick connect" system is the most popular, but I've read mixed reviews. The complaints mostly seem centered around difficulty getting the connections apart after use.

What say you? Do you have the Rockler setup? If not, what do you use instead? Yes, I can use a broom and dust pan, but that still includes opportunity to stir it up and breathe it in. I'm looking to upgrade!
I also have a Ridgid shop vac with Dust Stopper, but I honestly hate dragging that thing around.

Are they supposed to be used now? All the videos I’ve seen on shower valve replacements don’t show them on the assembly. My normal has been to put them in, but if not really needed, it would save a couple extra joints which I’m all for.

I found the two materials joined together in a dwv in my shower. Googling, I found the joint is not really “allowed” but is “accepted”, if using the correct glue. Since there is really no pressure in a dwv system, it should be ok, right?

Reason Im asking is I can’t find all the parts I need to redo this in pvc. I can find some in pvc and some abs....

One of the girls in the club and I were scheduled to to a co-demo in September for a club 2 1/2 hours away for her, 2 hours for me. 2 45 minute demos, $400 split between us. Our demos work well together, we've done a few collaborations together, she turns and paints flowers, I would be doing my dyeing demo. The president contact us last week, due to the pandemic, wanted us to do a Zoom demo at another shop an hour closer for $200 split. We said, no thanks. Here's my point, in addition to the drive time and the demo time I have about 5 hrs prep time plus moving my equipment and tearing my shop apart. She has about 3 hrs prep time plus getting tools together. I post this because I want folks to understand there is more to club demos than the drive and the demo. Below is one of our collaborations.

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My Bosch 1613 EVS has died so I need to buy a new router for table mounting. I'm looking for these features if possible since I don't have a lift.

- ability to change height from above the table
- ability to change bits above the table
- 2.25 HP is fine for my needs.


P.S. Is there an advanced search feature for this site?

I am surprised by the lack of discussion here about the so-called Unicorn method which has been well researched by David Weaver and posted on WoodCentral. His results have been confirmed by other leading lights - including Derek Cohen.

In short, the method as described (if I have it correctly) is:

* - set primary bevel to around 20°
* - hone a few strokes worth of secondary bevel a few degrees steeper.
* - power buff with a cotton wheel loaded with compound

When applied to el cheapo chisels one gets and edge as good and as durable as premium chisels in a matter of seconds.

I strongly suggest it is worth your while to read all the posts on the subject.

The seller left her 3 year old lawn tractor for us which I wasn't expecting.  Three weeks ago I know it was running.  There was a guy at the house who said he just serviced it and I know he cut some of the lawn.  I hadn't planned to keep it and my Dad is supposed to pick it up next Tuesday.  Problem is, since last week I cannot get it to start.  When I turn the key, it tries to turn over, but the LCD panel says Low Battery.  I've tried 3 batteries now--2 from HD which have higher CCA than the old battery (2017) and now an Interstate battery from Costco.  They all show Low Battery.  I also just borrowed my neighbor's Lithium jump pack and still couldn't get it to turn over.  It's still showing Low Battery.

I don't have a multimeter to test this with, but now on my 3rd battery and with a jump pack, is there a problem with the mower?  The neighbor said he never saw her cut the grass and I know someone else cut it, but I don't know if it was with this mower or their own.  The tank is nearly full but I have no idea if it's old gas or not. There is absolutely no corrosion on the terminals. Other than some duct tape on the arm rest, this thing looks pristine.

Anyway, thoughts?  I was going to take the battery to AutoZone and see if they'll test it.  Other than, I'm not a small (or big) engine guy so I don't know where to start other than to find a lawn mower service company that will make house calls (I didn't get the number of the guy who was here the first time).  It''s a Craftsman with a Kohler engine but it's probably originally by Cub Cadet.

Thanks,
Paul

I was repairing a 100 yr old folding screen and sought forum help on what material to use. I finally decided on double strength cardboard but it didn't work out. It was six feet tall--but folded in the middle, so I got a couple of sheets of 1/4" masonite from a local supplier. Turns out the thickness shrinkage that has affected all of our plywood has spread to masonite. It was just a hair over 3/16" thick, but I decided to use it anyway. It worked fine. Wallpapering it on both sides helped. Anyway I promised I would show the finished product so here it is before and after:

                    

I’ve seen a number of discussions about vertical vs. horizontal, but am trying to figure out the likely impact of vertical storage on the wood over time - I’m a hobbyist and some of the wood can be around for years (at least until I retire when I plan to spend my days in the shop). The location is in the back of the shop in a separate room along the back wall (it’s the only location I have the length). Access to either end is nearly impossible, so I can’t stand at an end to see what’s in the stack if laying flat. I have a 10 foot ceiling and about 12’ long back wall. The left end is full of Koa cutoffs that are vertical. I have approximately 20” from the back wall, so that would be the width of the pile.

All wood has been dry for years, some is rough and some S4S. I live in SoCal, so relatively little humidity. What I’m trying to figure out is whether vertical storage (easiest to pick through) is likely to lead to bowing over time. Woods most frequently stored / used are maple, walnut and white oak. I have a mix of others as well.

Thanks for any input. John