Hooking up my big old RAS using a static phase converter.

It runs backwards.

How do I switch it?

There are two blacks and a red coming out of converter -- do I switch them?









Already lost a half-day working on this, need to get it going!

Hey gang,

Quick question to see if anyone else has dealt with this before.  My brother is installing new chair rail along his stairs.  All of the existing chair rail in the house is cut short and returned wherever it comes across a door or window....so he wants to match that.  In addition....there is an existing light switch in the way anyway...so no matter what, he's forced to stop and return.  The problem is how to form/cut that return.  Here's a snap of the rail's profile:
   

So the rail will match the slope of the stairs....and if he were to cut the return 90 degrees to the rail itself....no problem....but that will leave the end of the rail at 45 degrees and looking rather odd (but it's square to itself and easy to cut.)  The question is....is there a way to cut and return the rail so that the end will be 90 degrees, straight up and down, and therefore better to the eye?  I can't think of anything that doesn't end up messing with the profile shape and looking janky.

Kind of hard to describe what I mean....so here's a couple of pics if it helps.

Easy cut and return....but leaves the end at 45 degrees on the wall and odd:
   

Harder cut that we can't figure out, but the end ends up 90 degrees and matches the door:
   

Thanks!
Kevin

Picked a rusty one up last spring, was able to finally work on it, today...
   
Handsome, ain't it...I have seen worse..
 
   
Wasn't too far gone...should clean up..
   
hand scrub with some 60 grit.....decided to go to 80 grit on the palm sander...
   
Was leaving just enough rusty white paint to be able to read....wasn't losing any markings....wiped it down, switched to a 220 grit in the sander, changing the pad after each arm/blade was sanded...and wiped down..
   
Then a bead of 3in1 oil mooshed all over...wiped on...wiped off...
   
Seemed to help a bit.   Will do a couple more oil and wipe down, later...
   
Look any better?   99.9 % of all the markings are readable....might be a keeper?

Can you add new joist hangers on top of old ones?  Every joist hanger that is attached to my deck ledger is rusted at the bottom where the joist sits.  Can I slip another joist hanger over the existing one and then screw (with the proper screws) or nail then in place without having to remove the old hanger?  Do they sell slightly wider hangers?

I'm building an assembly table that will have LOTS of storage. I want to add a couple of vertical drawers for part of my hoped for organizing. Can anyone share a link to plans or tips for the construction of this type of drawer. Plus, what are options for drawer slides?

As always, looking to reap the benefit of your collective wisdom and experience. Thanks for any time you can share on this.

I'm eliminating some extras in my shop. This time around it's some planes and a couple of odd miter gauges. Paypal (friends and family) M.O. or personal check is fine. All prices are without postage but most will fit into a medium flat rate box $15.05 with tracking. If you want more than the $50.00 standard insurance let me know.
PM me if your interested

1. Up first are 2 inexpensive miter gauges. On the all-metal one, the bar measures approximately 1/2” wide x 3/16 deep. Let's say $15 on that one. The orange plastic one the bar is 3/4” wide x 3/16” deep $10.00 or both for $20.00

1. Ulmia smother. The finish looks like it's falling off, it looks like it has some use. $50.00

1. Stanley 51 (Made in the USA). The blade looks like it has the original grind. It looks like the only use it's had is when someone named Mack scratched his name on the handle and cap. The blade has the Stanley notched logo. $35.00 plus $8.40 shipping

1. Union 43 fillister plane (like a Stanley 78), used but not abused. $75.00

1. Stanley 62 Plane it has the ubiquitous chip in the mouth which doesn't affect its use.$125.00

1. Stanley 6 plane. The tote has damage on the top $65.00

1. Stanley 48 (top) $100.00 and 49 (bottom) $125 both will make good users. If you take both they will fit into one medium flat rate box.

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Hey guys. long time no see. I've been involved with my other pursuits and wood working has taken a back seat to them.

I was trying to send a link to a buddy of mine who just started sharpening saws and found that the link was no longer valid. There was this great article on sharpeneing Leif's NorseWoodsmith site and now I can't find the site. Has that site disappeared?

Thanks,
Dominic

The trim around the window on my front entry door is cracked.  It's a steel door.  Can I pull this off and glue new pvc trim in it's place?   Or is there better option? I hate to replace the whole door.  It's protected from the weather by a storm door.

In the next couple of weeks I need to cut an old pool table slate into two or three pieces.

Diamond blade in circular saw is my best bet but that brings us to the problem


I have three circular saws: Craftsman that doesn't work (surprise
 ) Black and Decker that works but is pretty lightweight and a Milwaukee 6377 that needs a new worm gear ( bought it cheap since it needed work)

So here's the problem -- do I bite the bullet and buy a new saw?  If so, worm drive or not?  I will only use it rarely, but I have a bad case of "Timitis" -- more power is always better


I think the parts for the Milwaukee would be under $75 plus my own labor.

"Standard" circular saw ~$125, worm drives ~$180

I may make a pass through a local pawn shop tomorrow


What thinks the "brain trust"?

I’m looking to upgrade my guides on my 14” PM bs. What would you guys recommend. Are bearings still the beat choice? Ideally if there isnt a huge price difference I would want one with a tool less adjustment. I know there are others but Carter is the only company I know that comes to mind. Recommendations?

Also I won’t be resawing on it as I have a larger bs.