I'll be upgrading my table saw in the near future, and I'm leaning towards the 1023. Whether I get the 3HP or the 5HP I haven't yet decided.

I know many people will say that they have never had a 3 HP saw bog down and I don't plan to cut massive walnut beams, so I'm not worried about power. However, given the relative difference in price it doesn't seem like you risk much going to the 5HP motor.

The main concern is with power. With the 3HP, the oddball NEMA 6-15 plug more or less means that that circuit isn't really useful for other tools. With the 6-30 on the 5HP, you could (should) install a larger breaker and potentially use that for other 240V tools that I don't yet have. I have the space in my panel, but I would still hate to waste a double breaker slot on a single tool (even if it is a major tool).

Looking for issue #255 to current, let me know what you have and what you want for them. I'll pay however you prefer.

Thanks for looking,
John

Reluctantly I'm selling off my two PC plunge routers.  

3 1/4 HP

One of them has a nick in the cord but only the housing of the cord was cut.  No nicks in the ground wire.

Both routers have seen very little use.

Variable speed and made in the good old US of A!

$225 each plus shipping

Located in central Indiana


   

   

   

I cut some pressure treated lumber for a project and set it on the table saw for the weekend.  BAD idea.  Some WD 40 a Scotchbrite pad and about 1/2 hour of time and it is better.  There is some staining.

*Sigh* Well, after some deliberation, I've decided to not do dovetails for my current project...it's just taking WAY too long, I've probably used up more than double the Poplar I originally thought I'd use, and I'd like to finish this project since it's been and on and off again for over a year now. I'm a bit disappointed, but I've seen even guys like David Marks do drawers with other joints before, so I know I don't have anything to be ashamed of at the end of it all. What is the best joint for a drawer box other than dovetails, though? I'm also including finger/box joints as a joint I don't want to do, as I'm not in the mood to build another jig right now.

Also, I think most of my difficulty came from the fact that I was using no guides for my saw this time around...several years ago when I did my bedside tables, I used a homemade guide, and even though my skills with marking out the joints have vastly improved since doing some research, I still have trouble making perfectly square and plumb cuts where those are needed. I even got a new one of the dovetail saw I already had, and my cuts are definitely straighter (gotta make sure to take better care of this one so the blade doesn't get bent), but I still need to practice more before I'm ready to do a large volume of dovetails in a project context. What are some practice routines that can help build muscle memory with doing these joints by hand? I know this is an arbitrary line for me to draw, but I feel like if I'm going to be truly skilled at cutting dovetails by hand, I need to be able to do it without guides (not to sound like a snob, but it's just a level I won't be satisfied until I reach). However, would guides help me build muscle memory? I don't plan on being like Rob Cosman or anything, but I'd like to, sooner than later, become proficient and consistent at cutting dovetails by hand without guides.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Greetings all!

Surprised and somewhat astonished to realise it's about 20 months since I last posted here. I'm not quite sure what happened but one day I locked up the shop and didn't go back. No real reason... some minor health issues, a cold spring, a missing mojo - whatever. But I've been hankering after it lately, the shop is sitting there waiting, and the mojo may have returned! Certainly, there's a blanket chest waiting patiently for hinges to be fitted.

Good to see so many old familiar names still posting, and to see some of you still on the right side of the turf - hi, Jack!. To those of you who blog, I have been faithfully following - hi, Bibliophile Steve! And to everyone else, I'm looking forward to catching up with your recent adventures, tool rehabs, and estate sale and flea market plundering.

In cleaning out my shop, I came across some duplicate issues of Fine Woodworking magazine.

They are:

• May/June, 1989, No. 76 
  
• July/August, 1989, No. 77 
  
• June 1990, No. 82
  
• February, 1991, No. 86 
  

Hey, I am building a table and I want to do breadboard ends by hand. I am planning to use a cross cut back saw to establish the edge and chisel out the waste cleaning up with a router plane. I do not own a shoulder plane or any type of rabbeting plane. Is it possible to clean up the 90 degree angle without a shoulder plane? I don't mind buying a tool but I'm open to ideas on how to clean up the 90 without owning a shoulder plane. Thx!
Eli

Going through my junk email and found a Grizzly 10% coupon, but good only through 10/31. First PM gets it.

Backsaws

• Pennsylvania saw Corporation No 78          Blade 14"             12 TPI            $ 45 Plus shipping  40 +shipping
  

• Hardpoint  Tenon Saw    $ 15  Plus shipping  $ 12+ Shipping
  

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